SO far, with all the stuff new, more or less $US4531.91 for a complete kit.

This will include as new components...
ECU(spark and fuel, Gotech MiniX),
450 injectors(New)
Turbo GT1548 (New)
Intercooler (New)
boost gauge,
ceramic coating on the exhaust manifold,
powdercoating on the other stuff,
80Thu copper headgasket,
copper turbo caskets,
silicone rubbers and T-Clamps,
Throttle body(New),
Fuel press regulator(New),
Blowoff valve(New),
etc etc etc etc.....

only thing I do not have in there, is an electronic dizzy.... might see how hard that one will be to get done, but I would like to have that as a new component as well, and that makes it a bit of a problem.....

am I tempting you ?


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indeed yes, going through a carb will solve the problem with regards to the master cylinder location on lefties.... but then it's not EFI, which is missing my point all together..... not to mention fuel economy... my existing setup, I actually managed to get 10.2L\100km, mixed town, highway and a bit of towing as well...OK granted I'm running some other gismos in mine as well, but still....

nope... almost no movement forward or backward is possible the only realistic option is to go up.... the tube as is sits there is smack dab in the middle of where the brake-master will want to be....




the green over the top, is more or less where the bonnet is with regards to the height of the front part of the manifold.

the dot is the location of where I think it would want to be....

going up is the only way...... and now that I'm looking at this in 3D... damn it looks good..... I like :)

well, just snapped these....




Looks like it is going to be the fuel rail that might be a bit of a problem....

Kalula, I'm actually going to be building these, on the sideline. This is why I'm building this one, to get all the jigging and tools sorted, also the sourcing of all that is needed, parts wise... what would you be interested in, just the clean manifold, complete with rubbers, clamps and stubs(part that goes onto head), but no T-body and no injectors, or you looking for the complete bolt-on less the ECU, but including the injectors, t-body, f-rail and FPR.

So far my pricing looks awesome, when you speak dollars.... but boy oh boy speak Rands and it makes me feel like I want to puke.... :(

The exhaust is weird yes, I admit ,but I have to also say, I would now, not consider doing it any other way, I have absolutely no heat issues with the setup in my car right now, and I'm not taking it mildly... 14psi frequently. No heat shielding, no ceramic coating, though I think that might be the in thing, looks so much nicer....



yes AutoCAD is what I use to do all my designs in.

my total length is 195mm with nominal diameter being 31mm(not including the port length). the diameter is not the important part, it's the length. I can, with the silicone mounting method, extend it to about 220mm. this gives me a tuned length scope of 4700RPM ~ 4300RPM. Remember that shorter is higher in the revs... these are from my ubber top secret ultra complicated formula I concocted while in school (25hears ago), trying to tune my 2stoke motorbike :) so the numbers might be off a tad... you know with inflation and taxes and all that... :)



Any one here with a nice planned view of a left-hand drive Ute\sedan\coupe engine bay, such that I can maybe get a better idea of what space there is with the master-cylinders and all that.... I just realized that I might very well need the flat sides on the tube, if it where to go into a lefty.... :)

and please, show us a picture of this manifold, made from mandrell bent one-piece heavy gauge stainless, that you can get for what you say you can.....

Not Yet :) still need the car in a drivable condition.... once it's all done And I'm running on this one, It probably will be.

my existing manifold....



the injectors are actually just sitting in the pods, the fuel-rail with the 4 upper pods, get bolted securely to the manifold, the spacing should be such that the injector has no movement up or down, but should not be clamped ether....

I actually don't need to, It fits in without any mods to the tube, though the flat sides does look a lot better. It is a lot of extra work though.

airflow is actually not a problem at all.... the idea here is to have the runner lengths tuned such that it will be in harmonic resonance at about 4500RPM's which is the middle of my boost band... 2500~6500(rev-limit). From there the 4 silicone tubes, such that I can actually play a bit with lengths.... If I where to want the tuned length for anything lower than 3000RPM, I will need the flat sides on the main tube.

here is a list of all the stuff I need for a complete build....

Note, it does not include the distributor mod, if yours is still points, probably be best to get an electronic dizzy.

The List.

main tube 1
runners Al inlet 4
injector pods 8
Tube endcaps 2
welding 20
inlet manifold flange 2
Runners 304SS Inlet 4
silicone rubbers 38mm 4
clamps 38mm T 8
fuel rail 1
Banjo + Bolt 1
T-body 63mm (76mm od) 1
exhaust flange 10mm MS 1
steam bends 42mm MS 16
turbo flange 10mm MS 1
downpipe flange 10mm MS 1
Boost Plumbing 304SS 1
Boost Gauge 1.5bar 1
Fuel Pressure Regulator 1
injectors 440cc (set) CA18DE 1
injector plugs 4
intercooler 1
fuelpump inline 1
Turbo gt1548 Garrett 1
Fuel hose 6
Fuel filter 1
Gotech MX ECU 1
Basic blow off valve 1
vacuum fittings 3
clamps endcap red 10
clamps 50mm T 4
clamps 63mm T 2
clamps 80mm T 1
vacuum Tube PPRE 6
vacuum T push 1
silicone rubbers 50mm 1
silicone rubber 50to63mm 1
silicone rubbers 63to76mm 1
Gasket Turbine inlet 1
Gasket Turbine out 1
Gasket exhaust 1
Ceramic coating Mnfld 1
Powdercoating 1

Here, a little thread about the doings involved with converting a Nissan 1400 engine into a M3 eater, well ok maybe not the hole M3 that it's ankles :)

Starting off with the project in cyber-space, as usual. a couple of days in Auto-CAD and this is what I have....








pretty much almost exactly the same as what I'm running at the moment. The overhead exhaust manifold was kind of a stab in the dark, at the time. and with hindsight, It's the best way to do a U-flow head, in my opinion now. Some small changes here and there, things that I did not like from the first one, got fixed.
I'm using a one-piece exhaust flange, and the inlet manifold bolts on top of it.

now on to some of the fabrication.














Comment and suggestion are, as usual most welcome :)

wow is 8 Grand a fair price for a complete setup?

I'm costing the setup I'm busy building right now, And I can pull it through with everything brand new, new turbo, new 440cc injectors, new T-Body new intercooler, New ECU...etc,etc well basically 100% new....

all for less than $US5000 effort included.