Hey Mark,
Thanks for the plug!!
Anyone else want something made? The wife and kids are starving!!

Just kidding, but no, seriously, I can do most things....but no sexual favours.

Unfortunatly it it must be a block from the same AUTOMOTIVE manufacturer, I looked at this also (Mighty Boy & Hyhabusa engine).

An early civic and an S2000 engine would be formidable. But thats not a DATSUN either!!

It will be reliable if they are in good gondition and you have them tuned to your engine properly.
Seconhand carbs $500+. Good dyno tune and carb parts $500+

The problem with webbers/Delortos is unless they have been set up for a very similar engine you can spend hundreds on changing chokes, jets, emulsion tubes etc.

Downdraft weber, same problems.

Racinaround, You might be right, if you could move to engine to the left enough. this would help offset the drivers weight a bit aswell (RH drive in Aus).

The FJ1200 gearset in the 450kg`s Legend seem to be strong enough. I wonder if the GSXR gearset/case would be in a 700kg Datto?

The crank mod might not be that expensive.
If it only has to be destroked 3 to 5mm you could just offset grind the crank and run a smaller rod journal. (no welding)
I dont know the deck height of those late nissan engines but you might be able to get away with using a bike rod. saving a heap of coin.

I`m destroking an A12 crank from 70mm to 64.5 mm and using GSXr1300 bearings in custom rods. This is as much as we could destroke without building up the crank with weld.
Im using a 76mm bore.

Dazza,
Be good for the street but for IPRA it must be a Dastun/Nissan block.

For the street id like to see a GSXR 1300 engine /gearbox in a 1200. A bitt easier for the folks in the US cos you have to move the taishaft tunnel to the right and run the diff centre offset in the housing. AKA-Ledgends race cars or Aussie race cars in Aus.

Its a good idea, I think you could also cross enter into under 2lts sports sedans and without the restrictor.

I hadnt thought of the little micra engines when i started the engine im building for IPRA. There is plenty of hot up bits for them aparently.

But as D said they are small bore long stroke engines, hardly ideal for the 10,000 rpm they would need to be able to rev to before the restrictor realy takes hold.
When a small engine is used full boost wont happen until about 5750 rpm. ( when using a turbo large enough for 300+ hp).

That said, it still would be good to see one done.

Goes like a cut cat! Thats more my vintage.

But i could go on:

Shaking like a dog sh#ting razorblades,

Sweating like a pedophile a a wiggles concert.

Busier than a one armed brick layer in Bagdad.


Any way, The supercharger should help things along. (note no mention of apes)
Enjoy.

You might want to put some more info in your profile. It helps to know where you are from, for local cruises, parts trading ect.

Good luck this weekend.

Welcome to the forum Gbot.

The only way to know is to go to a good dyno facility with several systems and test them.

If you want to list all your engine specs i`ll give you the best info i can find inc. Primary diameter and length, collector type, secondary diam and length, secondary collector type if applicable and tailpipe size.

I`ll need to know:

Cam specs. lift, duration at .050" and lobe separation.

Intake type. )I presume its an individual runner type) and length from end of the runner to the valve face. and diameter.

Valve sizes, and porting.

Rpm shift point.

Do you have a close ratio gearbox?

Circuit racing, drags or rally?

If you can give me most or all of this info i`ll do my best to come up will the closest to ideal system i can for you.

Cheers.