Give me a call, i`ll build you what you need at a reasonable price.

The way i would suggest is to have it double back over the rocker cover, this gets you some length and also gets the throtle body on the right side for intercooler outlet.

$570 includes throttle body and injector bosses.

If you want velocity stacks in the plenum add $120.

If you want a fuel rail (with fittings and brackets) add $140

If you only want short runners without the bends over the engine subtract $120.

There`s a fixed quote for you...

From $450 to $830 depends on what you want.

Im away for a week so no computer acsess but feel free to give me a call

Simon.
0407 301 518

Blake, the head is built for that block.

From memory it has a fire ring that recesses into both the block and the head. if you were to turbo it you would use that head.

They have been built to work together.
Unless you are going to go through this process with another head.
And that head would make more power than most...

Thanks for that guys, never played with a 1000.

Not sure who was making them.
I offered to make some a while ago but not for a thou, didnt think many people would want a Dat 1000 one.

Let me know a bit more detail of what you want or want to achieve, i`ll make you one if you get stuck.

Yes, It should have enough travell.

Good luck with it.

Im probably not a suspension guru but might be able to help.

Im a little confused buy the way you typed the post.
Are you saying this is the shock travel from the mounted position in the car.
IE. 5.13cm droop travell and 7.87 bump travell?
Is this wheel travel or shock travel? If it is shock travel it will be close to enough because of the angle the shock is mounted in the coupe the wheel travels 25mm for each 19mm of shock travel.
This gives you 67mm droop and 103mm bump which would be enough..

You would normally try to have a little more droop travel than that, if you could lower the car a little more would help this and get your C of G lower also.

With all of the car set ups i have been involved with we find having a fairly soft rear suspension works the best. Standard rear springs would be a good starting point. Unless you dont have a traction bar setup in which case you would attempt to stiffen the front half of the leaf only.

Some thoughts anyway.

dont even think about using 38mm chokes, I would be very surprised to here you could even get them.

The recomendation for an A13 semi-race motor is for 30mm chokes, 115 mains, 160 air corectors and F16 emulsion tubes.

Going even bigger to a 1600cc engine in sports trim the recomendation is 33mm chokes, 135 mains, 160 airs and f15 emulsion tubes.

These two carby setting i have coppied from the "Four stroke performance tuning" book.

If you are getting close to 200hp you might use 38mm chokes but you would be using them in 45mm DCOE`s

In your case it would be closer to 90hp so the 32mm chokes might already cost you some midrange power, but they shouldnt be to bad.

A friend priced one similar to the Tilton unit in the pic and was $4000!!

Because i made mine from scratch the mounts are part of the pedal assembly, and mounts between the dash bar of the cage and the firewall.
Do you have a welded in cage?

I just had a rough measure of the pic and it appears to have a pedal ratio of about 8:1.
I wish i had found one of these before spending 50 hours building mine!!

Because of the high ratio you could go larger than i earlier suggested, maybe the same as me. 3/4 front 13/16 rear.
This would give you a good high pedal, at the expence of a slightly higher pedal effort.
I`d rather push a touch harder than have a pedal that goes nearly to the floor.

Simon.

Something like this....