Good call and well done Bert.

Have you got any photos of the front of the car whilst cornering, it would be good to see how much roll the car is getting.

You say the front is good, but presuming the body isnt twisting too much if the inside rear is getting too light eg. LHR, that means the RHF is falling over too far.Thus the heavier front bar, dont desmiss this unlees your car is understeering(pushing) like a pig.

Another thing that can cause this is insufficient rear end lateral locationing.

As you corner the diff moves sideways under the body puting more load on the outside rear tire and less on the inside. the more grip your tires have the worse it becomes.
Solution: Panhard bar, watts linc or "A" arm.

But if your using stardard road tires this shouldnt be a big problem. without these devices i would use a urethane front spring eye bush.

I would look at these two areas first.

Simon

Edit: all suspension should have bump rubbers wether it be on the body the diff, spring seat or in the shock itself most race cars use the latter. The suspension should not contact these at any time durring normal driving/racing. They are there to prevent sudden shock loadings of metal to metal contact in the event of running into unforseen objects or holes. In your case the curbs around the track! or running off!

Yes, firstly check you have at least 3" of rear bump travell and 3" of droop. But usually the rear would oversteer if the bump stops are hit not lift the inside. Increase the front sway bar a fair bit. dont be in a hurry to put heavier front springs in, try the bar first.

Absolutely, takes a huge amount of time to get tune right. Not too long maybe for a basic fuel and ign map thats way safe. But to tune for best mean/lean torque and optimal ign. as well as getting all the compensation maps right (cold start, batt voltage, accel enrich, baro etc). Days or weeks probably.

Im waiting for a couple of things to unfold before i can buy up. Might be well into 09.

Its interesting to hear what people are being charged. I wouldn`t have the same overheads and would think $65./ hour max.


Edit: MIldman, I priced a dynapack a couple of years ago and was told $50,000 USD (they sell the unit in USD)at the time was $78,000 oz. Called again when the oz $ was .95US and they had put the price up to suit. Not happy!
Anyway it was the best dyno for sensitivity/ repeatability i could find, although i think the dynalog software (designed by Andrew Elder) a lot better. A friend has this on his engine dyno and has exelent logging capabilities.

I totaly agree, people should be very carefull about choosing a tuner and there is not too many people i`d trust to tune my cars thats one of the reasons for wanting to buy my own.

You would want someone with extensive knowledge in your partictular ecu brand/carb type and engine config. And have large database of customers dyno files to prove it.

As you say, all this does make it hard to build a client base.

The dynos are about $75,000 if thats what you were asking. but i want to buy some In Cylinder Presure Transducers and software which adds about $10,000. These are for measuring in cyl presures when under load and shown on a graph showing pressure
during each degree off engine rotation. This allows for very accurate timing and fueling adjustments and shows up unstable combustion well before detonation starts.
It also plots exact BMEP/HP of each cyl tested.

How much does your dyno time cost you?

A bit of a loaded question as i`m contemplating buying a Dynapack dyno and was wondering if maybe i could recover some of the running costs but mainly it would be used for personal use.

Are you charged per hour, half day, is it only tune time or setup time aswell?

Hi all,

I have done lots of flaring of panels and prefer the look over fiberglass flares. unless they need to be huge.

To look good the wheels have to fill out the bodywork or the flares just cover the wheels (sorta the same thing).

Front guards have to be removed and the standard edge opened out. Draw a line where the new flare will extend to.

Using a pear shaped mallot work the new shape into a sand bag or similar, gradualy stretching the metal to get close to the desired shape and size before finishing the flare of with a planishing hammer and dollys.

To finish off the edge is refomed using a convex planishing hamer and dolly.

It could be metal finished or a very light skim of filler to get rid of a few hammer marks.

It can be almost a factory look if done well.

I can do this for any one that wants it done but freight could be a prob for the interstaters. I would have to know wheel/tyre suspension and ride hight combo.
or have the car.

There is one example in my photos on the coupe, i didnt flare these that much but removed some material before working the flare.

BTW there would be a cost involved as it takes time to produce a good result.

Or i could coach people on the phone if they wanted try to do it themselves.

Cheers, Simon.

Hi Mildman, My GF also has an AE101 corolla with a very similar noise it sounds like its coming from the front but i belive it to be a rear wheel bearing. it is a fairly common problem ive heard. maybe jack up the back and see if you can hear/feel a prob. when turning the wheels by hand.
Ive been putting it off, too much to do on the datto!!
Simon.

If you have 4 ignition outputs you could use some of the coil on plugs off a late model Daihatsu these have built in igniters so no need to run ignition modules, just run each ignition output from ECU directly to each coil.
A bracket would have to be made to suport the coils on an A series.
This way you eliminate additional wiring,modules and plug leads giving you a neat reliable and very effective system, and probably cheaper!!
The dwell setting for these coils is 2.5ms at 12v.
An easy way(but not he neatest)is to braze 4 pins directly on the front of a standard A series crank pully comming out about 10mm past the fan belt so the sensor has plenty of clearance just machine 4 indexed grooves each at 90 deg and sit the pins into these grooves when bronzing into place, file or turn down the pins to the same height.
there is spare boses on the block at the side to mount the sensor bracket.

Use the standard dissy (gutted and locked) with one trigger pin welded to the shaft at the original points cam. then mount a second sensor through the outside of the distributor body for the pickup.
The little bit of play in the cam/distributor gears doesnt effect timing accuracy because the dissy mounted sensor is only so the ecu knows which pin on the crank pully is no one cyl. The pin location on the pully is crittical.
Crank index position will then have to be set up in the ecu to have the pins electronicly lined up with TDC.

For single coil applications running batch fire injection the ditributor sensor is not required but the dissy cap and leads will have to be used. The shaft is still locked.You still get full ignition and fuel control but not individual cyl ign or fuel trim.

Hope this can help a little.

Hi Mike, I love this. Id run unusually high static compression very small and long intake runners, tiny trottle body/carb about 25mm, any bigger than this you will have severe detonation issues and Programable ignition. You could still run pump fuel because the efective compression ratio(with engine under load) wouldn`t be too high because of the tiny throttle. I would look at at least 12:1 testing might see you closer to 15:1.

Pick a car speed not too fast to give too much aero drag, maybe 85kmh gear the diff to give about 3000rpm at this speed and have all engine bits built for peak effiiciency at this rpm. manifold length, cam specs etc.

Some other ideas:
-Narrow tires w vey high presures.
-0 toe settings
-0w40 full synthetic oil in engine and maybe even gearbox and diff!
- lighten the car where ever posable
-90 deg+ thermostat
- windows up
-heated inlet manifold can help with vapourization w carb.

Alot of these things are generaly considered all out performance negatives but seeing economy is what its all about id be trying at least some of these ideas.

Good luck. I`d be keen to hear how you get on.