Yeah, cant wait to get it in the Ute. I'll be backing the boost right off so the standard gearbox holds up for a while. It still has 155/85/12 tires and 4 wheel drum brakes too!

I don't think anything is limiting the boost, I just haven't wound it up any more. I've had up to 36Lb of boost on standard pistons before but that engine had head studs, torqued to 70FtLb as well as intercooling. This engine has the standard bolts torqued to 50FtLb. I'm not sure how much more cylinder pressure it could take before it lifts the head.

I've been getting the ute roadworthy to get it reg'd. I'm keen too put this engine in something I can drive and still play with it. I ran it on the stand again yesterday to show someone, it made 133kw and 216nm. Same boost but the day was a lot cooler

An RT81 Corona, 12R engine . Solid enough car but the engine burned plenty of oil and was always noisy. Na, I wouldn't have it back. But I would have my HK GTS Monaro back. I sold it for $1300.

I didn't realize that good bends have little losses. I'm not sure where I got the 5% loss in flow capability from, but was sure it was in one of my books.. Doesn't make it right I suppose.

Edit, just thinking about it some more.. I can imagine there would be some losses as air has mass and changing its direction would take energy. If the flow becomes turbulent as the air separates on the short side, I can imagine the losses would be high.

I'll see if I can find my reference.

D, It's not going to make any difference to power output buy getting rid of the bends in the crossover pipe. That tube is 42mm inside diameter compared to 26mm id of the inlet manifold. Yes, getting rid of the bends in the crossover pipe might allow it to flow about 15% more, but it already flows enough to support over 400Hp.

Improving power is about reducing restrictions to allow the engine to shift more air.

The power might rise if the bends in the standard manifold weren't there or if it was re made using larger diameter tube. but it could be the head/valves that are stopping it making more power.

I suppose some might call it draw through. Although, with the throttle plate the other side of the compressor, the carbon seal turbo mods wouldn't be required.

I'm not sure what the maximum boost would be. I didn't log the air temp before I switched to the pre compressor injection. The Air temp sensor had fried when I over boosted it. I did the same thing to a pre cooler sensor on the race car, it died at 185deg c and is the same sensor.
The air temps were only at 45Deg c at 22psi with the ambient at 27deg, so the E85 is already getting the charge to within 18c of ambient. I cant log the charge temps without E85 unless I move the injector again. I'd be guessing the charge temp would be over 120c without the aid of the E85.

I think the advantage of water inj comes from being able to run leaner mixtures to gain Hp, rather than letting the fuel do the job. It also would enable you to run unleaded to very high boosts without det.

I did a lot of testing with water injection on my race car. I logged 4 temps and 4 pressures . Ambient, pre ic, post ic and in the exhaust manifold. I felt I was quite methodical with it.
I also tried different water jet locations and sizes including intercooler sprayers.

I concluded that although the water did drop intake temps(up to 70c pre ic when sprayed pre compressor) and egts, NO extra power was made in any of the tests, in fact, power was lost in every test.

I put this down to the fact that the intake temps were already within 15c of ambient in the plenum (before injecting the E85), that any colder, it wouldn't vaporize the fuel properly.
I have all the paperwork from the testing if you are keen to see it sometime.

Happy to help where I can.
You will need 4x600cc+ injectors to make good power and have some reserve using E85.
The single injector i'm using is 2200cc and running at about 60% duty cycle at 120Kw, and .79 Lambda

That's the go! I cant remember if your engine is an A12 or A15. Don't be scared of 20Psi if you are using E85 on an A12. I'd be more cautious if its an A15.
Double check your ECU timing table is actually what the engine is getting. Then at 20Psi start with timing around 23 degrees. you might be able to go up a couple from here. This engine is at 26Deg till 5500(peak tq) then i've tapered up to 29 at 7000. That's where MBT (minimum timing for best torque) ended up on this engine. Every engine will be different so let the dyno guide you on this.

If your engine shifts more air than a stock A12, The timing numbers probably will have to be less than mine because it will be making more power at a given boost(higher average cylinder pressure).
That's why I recommend the lower starting timing figure.

One other thing to be aware of.. If you have overlap on your cam, be a little careful about exhaust pressure going higher than inlet pressure. All sorts of problems arise from this. Inlet charge contamination, higher risk of detonation and pre-igntion and rapidly falling power! The last thing you need is too much timing if you get to this point.

Gold Bert, the advantage I have is that I paid $56 for this engine and feel like I can push the timing and boost to the edge just to see what happens!
The E85 does give me confidence. The air inlet temps only get to 45 degC in the manifold at 22Psi non intercooled.

Just back inside after trying the larger BB turbo. It didn't make 15Psi until 4800 rpm compared to 4200 with the smaller turbo.

190Nm at 5500, 120Kw at 6200 and 22 Psi

That's now 4 times what the same engine made on the stand with the original carby. Good times! would be a bit slow getting going on the road though!