If you want it mounted badly, I suppose you can simply tie it in there with pliers and some wire or tie-straps...LOL

Good work thus far, I'd love to come watch you do a few rounds when it's done. I suppose you'll be racing at Killarney in the gymkhana?

PS. unfamilia is right, the Aussies can't get nothing straight, I mean watch how they play rugby, they run all over the damn place, no wonder the Bokke can't stop them...HAHAHA

The beauty of the masonry bits is that they are a dime a dozen, you can select the size closest to what you want and simply grind it down to whatever size you want it to be.

Also how do you plan on keeping the top of the hub carriers from flopping around? Or must you still build the upper wishbones?

When I need to drill anything hard, I simply sharpen an ordinary masonry bit, the same way you'd sharpen a normal HSS drill bit. Only thing is take it slowly and keep a bit of water handy to frequently cool it while your sharpening it, apart from bennox, I haven't yet found anything it won't drill through.

It works really well in a case like this where there is already a hole that needs enlargement. You can make it drill without a pilot hole, but that takes some clever sharpening.

Certainly cheaper than any Cobalt drill you can find...

You don't need to modify the cross member like in the picture above, also it's much easier and neater to make the mountings from plate. Have a look at all the pics under my profile, I did the same conversion, just with a 16V, but the mounting and positioning of the motor will be exactly the same, as will most of the water pipes and stuff...

You don't need to modify the tunnel to fit the 21R gearbox, apart from a bit of panel beating with a ball peen hammer and moving the lever hole backwards about 100mm.

I'd rather go for the QG16DE engine then. They have much better port designs, and are also lean burn motors, meaning they have stronger pistons and rods. Friend has one with a TF035 Mitshubishi turbo on which he boosts around 0.7 bar. Making 168kw and 280nm, and he's been driving it for 50000km now, no problems. no other modifications on the engine, still running the std 9.5:1 CR and injectors, he did fit a 5th injector though.

No need to update wiki, I already did.

* 60 foot time: NA
* 1/4 mile time: 12.5s
* MPH/KPH: 181km/h

* CAR: 1200 sedan
* MOTOR: 4AGZE turbo
* GEAR BOX: 5 speed W58 Toyota
* CLUTCH: Spring centered copper button
* COMPUTER: Dictator Wasted Spark
* DIFF: Alfa LSD
* SUSPENSION: Homebrew tramp rods
* TURBO: MasterPower T3/T4 .48ex a/r 50 trim stage 2 partno 80001
* TYRES: Dunlop 195x50x15 semi slicks

Het die 25ste bietjie gaan drag weer. Eerste keer na die suspensie nou uiteindelik uitgesort is en ni emeer tramp as jy sy bal vastrap nie.

Het my tyd afgebring van 12.8s na 12.5s, met 'n 181km/h exit speed. Kan hom nog so bietjie harder launch, maar wou eers so bietjie die dinge uitcheck. Maar hy launch nou soos 'n droom...

Sal vir my 'n nice trumpet maak vir die turbo vir die volgende meeting, voel die krag raak so bietjie weg van 3de na 4de, kan dalk die filter wees wat dinge so bietjie kniehalter.

Sit met full progressive water/meth kit, dalk fit ek dit ook voor volgende keer, dan kan ons die timing so van 0.8 af vinniger maak, en die boost van 1bar na 1.3bar aandraai. Dan behoort ek in die 11's in te dip...

It's a bit more technical than just two plugs fire at the same time. The two paired cylinders' plugs will fire at the same time, thus the one that is on compression, and the one that is on exhaust stroke at that time. Generally 1+3 and 2+4 is paired up. Otherwise you might get a spark on an intake stroke which wouldn't be good.

Because you run wasted spark it would imply that you'll also have a minimum of two coils. Which means that the coil has to work only half the time, which in turn means it has double the time to charge if you so like. This will ensure a very good spark on most applications, so you'll have more complete combustion.

Rightly so you probably won't make any extra power by going wasted spark, but your car will definitely run smoother. There was a notable difference when I changed my system, both on throttle response and on starting.

Here's a site with some info on the Alfa diff.

http://www.alfamilano.com/articles/lsd/alfa_lsd_rebuild.html

And the one that sell the plates, I see they actually £50 one, but still they are available.
http://www.alfaholics.com/racing_and_ ... acing_parts/transmission/

@Stock1200Ute1 - Goal time will always be as short as possible, but I've never intended for it to be a dedicated drag car, so I always want it to be roadable.

@hattinid - Thanks, if you look under my profile, you can find a bbuild log of my entire car, I used to be on here often, but when they changed the site log in was impossible(seems to be a bit better now, though I still have to log in 5 or 6 times to make one post)

@ddgonzal - I'll add some more info to the wasted spark thread, there are some benefits to be had.

@D - Ya, I simply ground off anything that was on the tubes, apart from the breathing tube. I left the big bolt, as I might consider doing something with a Panard rod at some stage, and that looked like a good mounting point. Here in ZA they are hens teeth as well. I initially wanted to do a M75(Hilux diff), but couldn;t find a LSD unit for it, a guy with this one said I must swap him with about R600(+/-$100AU) cash difference. I was happy as can be, since these diff sell loose for upwards of R6000. I found an old guy in a shop on our local racetrack, which had a bunch of the friction plates in his shop that were in very good condition, the ones already in there weren't very worn either, so I just got the two best ones from his bunch and added them.

There's a site that sell them new, about $50US, but apparently some of the earlier BMW LSD units had exactly the same plates in them. They are actually ZF units, so it's not impossible that you'd find some others that would fit.