I'm not to comfortable with putting washers in there, where the weren't intended to go. The original is much thicker underneath the castle part...

Mmmm a sook hey? I got the whole front suspension for a 1400 bakkie which will now be installed into my 1200, great hey? Not so great when you don't get the castle nuts wo go onto the balljoints with. Why, because even though the old 1200 castle nuts are the same thread, they are not the same height.

Which means that the split pins don't go through the castle nut, but over it. No problem you say, go buy some...

Please tell me where, the Nissan agents don't have the originals in stock( and they never have), and every bolt and nut place I've been to in and around Pretoria only have the same ones as what was on the 1200 originally.

Shall I weld the lot together...

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That's not so unthinkable, my bro inlaw did it with his 1200. It is a RHD car, but with the CA18DET he fitted there was no space for the booster on the firewall, so he mounted it ahead of the strut tower. He manufactured brackets from angle iron and flat bar, which was bolted to the chassis and strut tower. It works a charm, and he hasn't had any problems with it yet, after 2 years.

Also the square shape MK2 Escorts all have their brake boosters mounted like that out of the factory, and the MK1 Golfs, you call them Rabbits I think, all have elaborately linked boosters on the opposite side of the car.

Yeah, saw 2 blow up on the same night once, both in blue 1400 ute's, can you believe it...

EDIT: Maybe they just didn't like the blue...

The reason they want to weld the unused holes up, is that they want to restore the original designed amount of material around the fastening points. While this is a novel idea, you might want to go and read up about welding aluminium and it's alloys, to see what a mission it is to do properly.

You have all kinds of problems with different metallurgical properties and mixtures of different metals to get the desired properties for a given application. I doubt that these materials are sold in rolls of welding wire and/or sticks, so your going to compromise with some filler that is not the same metallurgically, and you're going to fuse them together. They have different cooling rates, and the original metal's properties changes when it is heated to the point of melting, and you end up with microscopic cracks and faults, which is not something you want in a wheel.

Not even in a wheel that's going to see limited duty. Read up about it and maybe you'll change your mind, and possibly save a few lives.

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Logic tells me this will only weaken the wheel even further, because you are now pressing a dowel into a hole "to small" for it. This pressure is sitting there waiting to be relieved, and the moment you drill the new holes, and even if the have been pre-drilled, the pressure will by diverted towards there, as these are the closest relieve points. You once again end up with hairline fractures and/or faults, which is not good.

Just my 2c, as I wouldn't even have though of re-drilling alloy wheels. Steel wheels is a different beast altogether though.

If you could get your hands on a Master Power unit, get it. They are bomb proof... The Xcess and other no name brand ones seem to die to often when you give them hell.

They have a site also www.masterpower.com.br, their prices are very favorable, slightly more expensive than the generic ones, but far less than the better know ones.

Hi Meg,
welcome to the site, and may you find as much information and help as he have.

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I know of a few gearboxes that bolt straight up, but we don;t seem to have them in South Africa. they are mainly out of the older RWD Corollas, and more information on them may be found here, 4A-GZE stuff.

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Depending on what you want to do about the heater in the car, you may block it of, or manufacture a more compact 90 degree outlet to connect it up to your heater system. I have blocked it up as I wont be needing it.

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Any late model 1400 Nissan ute's will bolt straight on, and their disks are quite good. Keep in mind that this is for us in ZA, but may be different for you if you're in another country.

Have a look at my build, as I've been doing the exact same conversion, and you may pick up a few things. I'll be bolting in my new front suspension in the next few days, and will have pictures up of that.

The car is still in very good condition, but I think R30k is a bit stiff as well, after speaking to some buddies in the 2ndhand business.

Here are the pics;

Ok, I'll speak to my dad, and see if he's interrested in having a look. Will get your details in the PM's.

Hey Yellow_Peril,
what are you looking at getting for the car? I used to live in Goodwood 'till about a year ago, but moved to Pretoria. My parents are still there, so it shouldn't be a problem to let my dad have a look at it.



EDIT: Have a look on the right side I've posted a PM to you. This one won't be carved up if I do buy it...

EDIT again: Make that the left side...