You know, actualy I've been avoiding the diff thing a bit, and have been exploring every avenue other than fitting a different diff.

The car will be going for spray shortly, so I maybe I should spend the free time fixing a proper diff. I don't do the work myself, but having been a automotive machine sales/repair/installation man many moons ago, I know just about every engineering shop in the country, so it's not a problem to get something sorted out... Will keep you posted, thanks anyway...

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What is the H190 then? Will it handle the power, and from which car does it come.

Unfortunately I have a habit of doing things back to front and already bought a set of wheels and tyres for the car. A wider diff is therefore not an option...

Pardon me for asking, but do these fit into standard 1200 sedan and/or UTE housings? I'm fitting a 4AGZE to my 1200, and aim to make upwards of 200kw. Short of locking the diff, like my b'inlaw did with his CA18DET powered 1200, or fitting another stronger and wider diff, this seems like the next best thing.

The next problem would be to either get one imported from Aus, or trying to get Topgear to give me the drawings...*winkwink*

Sorry for mentioning kw's, I see most people here use horses, which I haven't yet come to understand. Other than that people in some countries eat them and most others ride them...

There's a page on this very website that has all the details on these cars, or rather maybe some links to them. Apparently there used to be a factory that bought the half completed cars, without engines en gearboxes, and then converted them to electric. It was somewhere in the USA.

Don't do eeeeeeeeeeeet!!! Atleast keep it Japanese if you have to...

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There's a lot of theory around this, but if you picture this scenario, it might help you a bit. Any hot gas wants to expand, the moment you let it out into a larger area, that's exactly what it will do, and it will loose a lot of density. Now, if you keep it in the same size hole it was in before, the only place it can expand to is down and out of the manifold. You now keep the velocity and density of the gas, which will help you spin the turbo up much faster.

However, don't think by reducing the diameter you'll amplify the effect, that'll simply choke the engine, and you'll start having pumping loses again.

My advice would be to rather use the A12 manifold, but dowel match it to the head and smooth it out as much as possible.

I normaly go to the Wesbank raceway In Johannesburg on Wednesday nights, when they have illegal type racing in a controlled environment on a properly prepared dragstrip, with medics and all. Basically it was started as an initiative to get people of the streets, and curb illegal racing on public roads. This is in South Africa btw... Anyway, you pick your opponent and race who ever you like. There are no lights and/or time slips, and the first person across the line wins.

Sometimes there's these two guys that turn up with their quad bikes, which they had 1000cc Yamaha engines fitted to. They bugger off for what they are, but they're still no match for the Dattos with 4AGE's and CA18's...

I'm going again this week, so I'll see if I can get some picks and post them on here.

Hey datsik,
lets have that article about building the knock indicator.

Well then the Sentra one shouldn't be hard to mod, because bar the lathe work to resess the shoulder by 3mm, it actually ran on the L for a day or 2 before I could get it to my dad. This is assuming thet the collet of the A is the same size of the Sentra one. I must appologise for not knowing the exact designation, but I will try to find out which it was. Have since sold the 1 tonner to fund my project I have listed elsewhere on this site.

I owned a Nissan 1 tonner with the L18 once, and with some lathe work from my dad's side managed to fit a Sentra dizzy. I basicly fit already, you just have to replace the coupling on the Sentra dizzy with the L18 one. The lathe work was to take about 3mm of the shoulder so that it would enter the oilpump drive a little more. Also I didn't have to change any wiring at al, it's simply plug and play. My point is, that you should thus be able to fit one of these to the A's. I