I also looked for it the other day and found it, but can;t find crank journal sizes. Just a little something I'm toying with in my head...

Hey bud, I'm also a bit full up at work, so I'll probably only be able to have the stuff weighed and shipping priced on Monday. Just so you don't think I'm pulling out ya?

Cheers
Francois

Omdat dit makliker is om boost by te sit met 'n plenum en een throttle...

Well, I'm looking for a round light steel one and have a square plastic type one here in ZA. If we could get to some agreement, then we could mail each other in a swap? I'll even throw in the crystal lights and mounts I have for it. Just want the steel flat bar grill...

I want this one, with the light surrounds. Not to bothered with the lights, will fit mk1 Golf crystals.



and have this one to swap


this is my actual car with the grill and lights...

by that account then 720's do to...

I've seen them in single and double...

Could also be a Stanza grill

Yes it's definitely beneficial to know if the vales aren't sealing properly, but not while you are CC'ing chambers or ports for that matter. Found that we normally do CC'ing before and while we do flowing in the ports and chambers, but before we do the seats.

This is because you sometimes just nick the seat when busy with the porting and flowing, which will cause enough water to drain to make the measurements inaccurate. Also on old heads that you want to take preliminary measurements on, the seats could be pitted and not sealing properly. At this point it doesn't matter if the valves don't seal 100% yet, because they are still to be cut. So it's useful to use a thicker type fluid that doesn't drain away very quickly through the smallest of hole/s.

Once that kind of work is complete, you do the seats then we normally use paraffin(kerosene for US) or diesel as a final measurement. It's thin enough to show any leaks the vacuum test might not have picked up, but it won't cause your pristine seats and valves to get rusted.

We normally use mineral oil to do the CC'ing of chambers. Sometimes the valves don't seal properly then the water can drain past them, where the oil will not. Also on the pistons the mineral oil works better since it won't drain past the rings so fast.

Plus oil doesn't cause rust...

Look through my pictures, that should give you all the info you need. The only thing I'd do differently, is not cut of the mountings from the crossmember, in hind sight that wasn't really needed.

http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum ... hp?uid=6960&orderby=dateA

As Ange said DOT5 is silicone based and not compatible with other fluids. But there's another more important reason not to use it. All the other DOT fluids are hygroscopic, which means they absorb water moisture. This might sound like a bad thing, but it's not.

The silicone based fluid doesn't absorb water, so the water allowed to pool in low areas in the system, which means it can cause rust in those areas.

Your supposed to change brake fluid once a year anyway, so the water will come out, but a year is long enough for rust to occur and damage stuff...