For spoilers and fibreglass panels try this site: www.showcars-bodyparts.com/datsun.html. If you Stateside guys are really keen here downunder in New Zealand we have a range of
fibreglass and carbon fibre panels available. Front and rear spoilers, front guards, coupe doors, bonnets, boot lids and dashboards. I've also seen coupes here(racecars) with
fibreglass tail light panels and rear quarters.

The 1200 coupe was contraversal for a number of things including it's "works" status. It had the GX head fitted and a 5 speed which were never offered on the Australian market making the
drivers of other makes of cars claim they were disadvantaged. Also as I've written before the capacity of the engine was doubtful as well. All race teams "cheat" to some extent in how they
interpret the rules but some of them are more sneaky than others. Another good example of this was Allan Moffats RX7. In Australia the RX7 was sold with rear seats to qualify it as a
touring car though in the States they raced as Sports cars with only 2 seats. This alone was enough to cause grizzles but the best story I've heard was from the guy who owned one of
Moffat's racecars, he broke a gearbox and bought another from Moffat, a factory 5 speed with 6 forward gears which helped the little rotang wind up around the awesome Mt Panorama Bathurst
circuit. Another case of what you don't know won't hurt you !!!

Hi Simon,
Before you start it would be a good thing to decide what size wheels you are going to use. The rim diameter then determines the maxium size for your discs. The bigger the better I say.
Wheel size also determines how low you can get the car without flaring the guarding and lifting the inner wheelarches. If you choose a 13" rim the range of standard Datto discs is vast. A
smaller rim allows you to run a low car without having to resort to extensive re-engineering of the suspension. If you are really serious about racing your car, decide before you start
exactly what you want to do and stick to it. All too many times I've seen guys rip apart their cars to build a kick arse racecar only to have all their "expert" friends tell them they are
doing it wrong. The builder becomes confused, disillusioned and gives up, with the car usually getting split up and the parts going to other aspiring racers. I have a copy of the Datsun
1200 competition suspension book , it's basic stuff but can be still applied. I could send you a photocopy if your interested.

Earplugs and brown coloured undies to hide your excitement.....The motor is out of it at the moment getting some new forged pistons. The rings collapsed after a late night burnout
fest in town. It lights them up in all gears, not surprising really !!!!

The V8 1200 is running around the streets terrorising our local neighbour hood. The engine is mounted via a solid motorplate which in turn bolts to the crossmember bolts on the chassis
rails. It runs a super T10 4 speed through to a narrowed Ford Falcon Borg Warner diff. It has 4 wheel discs with 4 pot RX7 front calipers. It was originally built around 10 years ago with a
2 Litre turbo L series motor. The fire wall and trans tunnel are modified considerably but there is still plenty of room inside. The blower was dropped on it as a joke which stuck, it is
fully functional and currently runs underdriven. I have a heap of photos to post on the club noticeboard as soon as I get around to scanning them all. There pics from over 19 years of 1200
ownership. I will get on to it soon.

You seem to have missed the point but answered your own question. HP is acheived by a combination of revs and displacement. The air pump scenario is good , by adding a turbo/supercharger
you squeeze more air too.Upping the compression ratio does it too,but at the expense of drivability. By increasing the size of the cylinders also allows more air to be pumped. Truck engines
develop huge amounts of HP and torque using low revs and high compression as do Trains etc, revs does not equal HP alone. Race trucks downunder are speed governed to 100 mph to keep things
safe. They are mighty fast in fact a few years back a race Scania took on a full noise GRP A BMW M3 from a standing start and raced a lap around Englands Brands Hatch circuit, to everyones
amazement the truck won and it's rev limit was 4500 rpm. I love the A12 motor it is definately my favorite motor and I've certainly built plenty of them but Cubes will beat a hiroshima
screamer anyday. Just to lighten things up a little I'm currently working on a friends 1200 coupe with the ultimate in an overkill engine.... a 355 Chev with a 671 Blower!!! And it's all
sreet legal and boy does it turn heads. It's bloody fast in a straight line but in the twisty bits a Lada would outhandle it but it was'nt built as a canyon racer. If I was asked what a
good street combo would be I would go for the A14/15 as it does'nt need to have it's ring revved off it to shift the little Dattos.

Hey Mario,
Nismo may not have offered forged pistons for the A15 but they were and are still available. Also there are kits off the shelf in Japan for 1600cc engines. The main reason for Nismo not
offering them was that the L16 motor was their weapon of choice for the 1600 + class so there was no real reason to develop the A15. In fact Nissan fitted the L series motor into a sleightly
lengthened 1200 and called it the Excellent, but it was'nt it was plug ugly and with the heavy OHC it understeered like a pig. A friend has a twin cam A14 that was used in Japan in open
wheeler racing, they were also built as 1600s to run in the Formula Atlantic series. I agree about the short stroke concept about running higher revs. The 302 Chev is a good example but it to
was built to fit into a 5 litre class limit as was the mighty Boss 302 Mustang. I disagree that revs equal HP. Pro Stock drag cars are running huge 500cu in + engines in an effort to get them
down the strip faster. Myself and a number of Downunder Datsun racers have spent thousands developing big capacity A series motors and built with the right components can still rev happily to
9000 rpm.With a classes still running 1300 to 1600cc & 1600 to 2000cc the high Hp 1590cc Datto motor is popular. Horsepower around 170 HP is safely achievable.

Don't forget to mention they won their class 5 times out of 6 with the sixth being a disqualification for not allowing
an engine check!!!!

B110s/ 1200s used the H145 diff, including the wagon, the ute diff is a H165 , the same as Sylvias. The Skylines use even bigger diffs, They all look similar but are different.
To fit a Bluebird diff centre you will need the ute housing.

New Zealand seems to have more than it's fair share of Japanese performance cars. I am currently restoring a 1400 GX KB110. It came from Japan to NZ in the late 70's. It has a A14 with twin
40mm Mikunis and cast iron 2 piece extractors It has the GX head with larger valves and double valve springs ,all factory fitted. The bonnet has a beak at the front to make the exterior
different. It is badged as a Sunny. I have 2 plastic kits of this model. The interior has a 2 tone velour trim and the instrument surrounds are square instead of round. It has the larger H165
LSD diff and bigger rear drums. The front struts are shorter and tne discs and calipers are the same as the 180B. I've rebuilt it with a few extra goodies including a heap of genuine 70's
Nissan racing parts including a winged alloy sump and competition oil pump & cooler. This model was a homologation special to keep the mighty 1200s competitive in Japanese touring car racing.
I know of another similar car here in NZ. My car has factory fitted Minilite style wheels which were made in Japan called Watanabe's. I will be racing this coupe in Historic racing now it has
been accepted by the "experts." As has been said before there are still plenty of go fast parts available in Japan and there are still quite a few 1200s. I have recently sent 2 bonnets to
Japan for some 1200 restorers.I also got a very hard to find rear sway bar for my GX, from Japan.It is mounted to the diff and has bolts though the chassis rails. I have never seen any mention
of these in any book or manual and I have a pile but a fellow 1200 nut in Japan swore it was genuine. If any one is looking for parts let me know as I can usually find them for you. I'm not in
a business or anything, just a hard core Datsun man.