Hi
Rare Spares have all the rubbers and seals you want, but they are'nt cheap. They have a web site with an
on line catalogue.

Another diff that can be considered and is a bolt in is a Mazda RX3, the spring pads bolt up to the Datto leaves like it was meant to be there. The diff is slighty wider but not much. The
RX diffs are relatively strong and can be fitted with the heads from later RX7s and the ratio choices are good and LSDs are easy to find too. Incidently there is a red & white coupe which
features in the main page gallery, it has a RX3 diff and a 13B bridgeport , I built that car over 10 years ago and it's still going strong. It was a nice surprise to see the old girl again
,it was my first 1200.

Machine 15mm along the threaded section on your 1200 castor rods the same diameter as your thread, you don't need to cut more thread. This will give you approx 4 degrees of castor
which is all you need. I assume the 2 inch figure given was the overall length of thread ?

Glad to help Davo, for trivias sake the available ratios for your diff were. 3.7:1, 3.889:1,4.1:1,
4.375:1,4.625:1, 4.875:1, 5.125:1 and 5.874:11 so you are spoilt for choice. For anyone still running the 1200 diff and your'e trying to save some weight find a 1200 station wagon
or van diff they are 4.1:1 ratio and alloy headed which can save some unsprung weight.

Hey Davo,
The 1600 wagon diff head is the same as used in the 1600/2000 Fairlady sports car. There are a few specialists on the web for these cars so finding a slippery diff should'nt be a problem.
I suspect they are the H165 which is the same as The 1200 ute and C20 van(which had an alloy diff carrier in the 1500s)As I've said before you can often find LSDs in the higher specced
versions of the C20s, though quite often they are so stuffed that they will pass the freewheel test and the only way to know for sure is to pull them out of the diff housing to find out
for sure. The last 2 I found were free from the local dump! I would never recommend welding/locking a diff for street use, its wrecks tyres and screws axles to buggery chase the LSD
option.

Eddie,
Your English pound will go a long way downunder. New Zealand parts are even cheaper than Aussie due to there being more importers and no import duty (tax)Therefore it is easy to pick up a
FJ for $NZ400.00 whereas I see them advertised for over $AUS 1000.00 CA's SR's etc are very common and cheap. There are many importers in NZ who are shipping complete cars to the UK
Skylines, RX7s etc .A friend of mine does it and can land a Nissan 4 cam V8 in NZ for around $NZ400.00 !!! If you are interested in dealing with him let me know.

Hey guys,
As an owner of both a rotang 1200 coupe and a piston powered 1200 coupe my advice would be to go for the CA option for the street as the advantage is torque. The rotaries thrive on revs which
means big speed which does'nt go down well on the street. My racecar has a PP 12A and is a rocketship but is slow out of the corners compared to a a torquey A series. Years ago I ran a PP 10A
to run in the sub 2 litre class. My teammate ran a 140hp 1290cc in his 2 dr sedan. In a heads up drag race (strictly legal officer)the 1290 blew me away off the line every time despite me
having 215 HP. It would take almost the entire 1/4 mile to reel him in. It's not just Horsepower that builds fast cars, you need the pulling power ..Torque as well. We had a CA1600 engined
coupe a few years ago(it was written off in a huge crash) the head on that after a little tickling flowed 240HP and with some cams and larger valves proved to be a super strong performer and
a very worthy replacement for the classic A series. Rotarys are a cool motor but a better on the track where you can throw them into a superlight car and fly. My current coupe weighs 570kg
and it's engine pumps 294hp with EFI. It will accellerate to 140mph in around 500m but it's motor despite all the latest electronics would be a pain in the arse on the street, without even
getting into the already mentioned noise subject. Anyway thats my 5 cents worth, hope it helps.....

Hey Matt,
There was a coupe in Wellington up until a couple of weeks ago with the very same set up in it. The width was ok and it was sitting on the leaf springs. The size of the diff is quite a
bit larger so they'd chopped the rear floor out between the chassis rails. The rear shocks had been hung off a tube which ran between the rear rollcage supports. I'm not sure if the
spring mount had to be shifted but thats not a major for you anyway. Have you got a diff, as the car has just been sold minus the diff I think so it may be agvailable if your'e
interested.

It's not the web, but if you're in Oz or NZ the current issue of Fast Fours magazine has a bit of a write up on the the mighty
Z18 turbo terrors.

I've been wondering about that ID for a while. There is nothing wrong about a Datsun powered Midget...I've got one to. It's got a 1460cc GX headed motor with twin 40 Dellortos and the
good old dogleg 5 speed . It's a racecar with full fibreglass front, boot and rear flares. It runs 13x10 3 piece rims is as low as and really winds the old boys in the MG club up as it
weighs around
460 kg and with 142HP it really moves. What really gets up their noses is that I disguised the engine with a MGB rocker cover and painted the head and for months they thought it was a
pommy A series, suckers....