The main leaves on the B210 are longer than the 1200 one's but you can use the other leaves. If you add these to your 1200 main leaf you should have a harder rear spring. The H165 diff from
the utes is tough but comes in lower ratios than the cars. The 1200 engined ute usually has a 4:1:1 ratio, the same as the station wagon and is good for acceleration. Limited slip diffs were
available for 1200's but are rare as they were a race part. The Nissan C20 vans had A12 & A15GX engines and H165 diffs.The housings are too wide for 1200s but the diff centre on the A15
models is often alloy. Many of the people carrying variants(coaches/minivans) had Limited Slip Diffs. Happy hunting.

Dead right, sorry I missed that point about the A14 piston. The piston I was thinking about using was the A13 which is the same dia as the A14 ,but I've just discovered is no longer
available here in NZ. It's been a while since I used stock pistons and I'm out of touch. There may be some Nismo pistons sitting on a shelf somewhere in the world the Part No is
12010 MO820. Sorry for causing any confusion.

Dead right, sorry I missed that point about the A14 piston. I was thinking about using was the A13 which is no longer available here in NZ. It's been a while since I used stock
pistons and I'm out of touch. There may be some Nismo pistons sitting on a shelf somewhere in the world the Part No is 12010 MO820. Sorry for causing any confusion.

Boring the A12 3mm to suit the A14 is a very common mod, in fact thats exactly what Datsun did in the 70's to create the giant killing Datto's. For trivias sake the maximum oversized
piston for the 1171cc A12 is 60thou over which gives a capacity of 1221cc. A 76mm bore in an A12 gives a capacity of 1298cc which slots in nicely in the sub 1300cc engine class for
racing. Also the bigger bore helps unshroud the valves for better breathing. Hope this helps.

Hi Leosnake,
Extractors for the A series are available in NZ new for the following engines,
A12 round port and A14/15 oval port (GX) They cost around US $75.00. They are faithful copies of the later design Nismo long branch extractors and are made here in New Zealand by a
company called Coby. They are 4 into 1 with a 2 1/4" outlet. The problem is that being a copy I know the Nismo extractors were designed for the right hand drive cars so they may foul on
the steering box on your car. But if your still interested I can enquire on the shipping costs.

Don't quote me cause without model numbers etc I could be wrong, but the dogleg 5 speed should be the same length overall as the 4 speed. So your driveshaft won't need altering. But the
input spline may be larger in Dia and will need a clutch plate from an L series engined car like a 1600.which I think has a similar dia clutch plate, or if they are available in the UK
use the FWD Pulsar 1.5 EXA Turbo clutch and pressure plate for a bulletproof set up. The only problem you may experience is the reversing light switch hitting the tunnel, a good whack
with a hammer should fix that. The crossmember is easily fabricated though Nissan years ago listed one in their Motorsports manual it would be hard to find one. Various 1200 models came
equipped with the 5 speeds factory so it's a fairly straight forward job.

I'm showing my age here but when Mobil 1 first appeared I ran it in my race motor,the oil itself works fine but,the engine was destroyed when the block split(an overbored A12)and water got
into the oil. With a synthetic oil the oil does not foam when there is water in it and I missed the increase in the oil level and broke a rod as a result. For a long time after that I ran
mineral oils until I tied up a sponsorship deal with Castrol who supply all my oil and brake fluid
(SRF silicone race fluid) so when it's free I have to be biased. I have been told that the Mobil 1 formula has been refined over the years and is a great product. Though in closing I know
of 2 Mobil sponsored cars which actually run Castrol RS so it's really up to you. Oh and the RS does foam slightly in the presence of water.

Hey good lad, do you burn oil in preference to grass?? Just joking . Back to the far more relevant subject . I have photos and diagrams showing the factory race catch can/breather system
which was developed to cater with the problems created by running the a12/13s to 12000 rpm. The motors were tough as they won their class at Bathurst 6 times but were disqualified one
time cause the team would'nt allow the engine to be stripped in post race scrutineering. This factory owned engine turned up years later in an innocent parties car and it was severely
oversized. Not that for one minute am I suggesting that Datsun cheated!!!!!!!!!! Any way let us know if you want to have a look at the stuff. I'm in Wellington so it's only a stamp away.
PS On the subject of oils I've always run Castrol GTX in all my road motors with no problems. For race motors I won't let anything but Castrol RS in my babies.

Hey Chris,
What is it that has been in your mind? Does it contain THC? Seriously though I guess you are at tech doing Auto Mechanical or whatever they call it. It's been 18 or so years since I was at
tech and I remember the majority of the tutors were ol farts only interested in what was for lunch and perving on the secretarial students. But one tutor was a cool guy into Muscle cars who
had a bunch of hardcore Mopars including a rare as Plymouth Superbird which ran 187MPH in the flying quarter a few years ago. Another thing to think about was something my old man suggested
(he was a mechanic) was to be an engineer instead so you could fix and make new bits when replacements weren't available. It worked for me, and I still make heaps of stuff for mechanics who
can't find what they want in a catalogue. Don't bag the tutors too much. They are probably just jealous of you younger fella's anyway.

Your valves should be ok, they are actually a form of stainless steel and therefore harder than the current chilled and hardened cast iron seats.The wear and recession is caused by the
harder valve pounding its way into the softer valve seat. Fit hardened valve seats and try lapping your original valves into them before splashing out on new valves.Also while it's apart
check for wear in the valve guides and replace the valve seals. I thought Aussie still had the option of high octane petrol which won't stop seat wear it will certainly help stop
pinking. Here in NZ we have to run our cars on weasels piss and getting modified motors to run as well as before is near impossible without adding ( illegally ) avgas. Remember that the
new fuels contain a lot of toluene which loves eating rubber so replacing hoses to fuel injection spec is a good move as well. Hope this helps.