Got any pics of other engines running the GTI-R throttles? They don't seem to be popular to use here in NZ at all.

The differing bolt patterns are for the velocity stacks, not the throttles themselves.

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Thanks Rallytwit, I hear ya! I'll be keeping an eye out for a mid-close box as that taller 2nd is certainly better than the std ratios. Will be behind a pretty stroppy A14 and also L18 w/ L14 crank so I think I may have the same situation as you too.

Personally I wouldn't bother. They are quite ugly throttles when you look at the internal port shapes. And quite bulky too. I've just cast a one-off manifold for a SR20DE Autech to fit them and if I was to do it again I'd try to convince the customer to go to billet throttle blocks from EFI hardware. By the time you buy the GTI-R throttles, get them blasted to clean, sort out custom velocity stacks etc (why oh why do they have different bolt patterns between each runner!!) you're getting close to the price of new bits.

Thanks Rallytwit! Good to know

Rallytwit, do you have any info on the ratios for the mid-close Z20 63a? Is this in Z20 powered 720's too? I've got a 63a in my car and keen to get some closer ratios for circuit racing. I believe the std wide ratios are 3.382, 2.013, 1.312, 1, 0.854. Cheers

While it is normally wise to be skeptical about power claims such as this, I'd believe Reg saw 195hp on his dyno. He had access to all the Nismo gear and helped the works department develop engines throughout the late 70s and 80s. He knows more than all of us put together about these motors. Currently he has the worlds fastest N/A SR20VE & K20A if that helps with 'Cooking' the facts.

No problems. Personally I wouldn't worry about lightening and balancing the camshaft and sprocket. It all helps but I think the effect alone will be very minimal. However, if you do it to every rotating and reciprocating component then you will certainly notice a difference.

I've tried getting a sample but they currently have none left. Kelford cams have one to test I believe. I also agree regarding Chinese components. They are sold to a price after all and you get what you pay for. Half the issue with bad quality is due to the market expecting anything from China to be dirt cheap.

I think you are over thinking the reground cam. I've never ground a profile that is too big to fit on a standard core. Normally if you are going big duration you want corresponding increased lift so you have to reduce the base circle diameter to make the cam fit down the cam tunnel - and therefore the increased duration easily fits within the oem lobe size. If you are looking to really push the boundaries then a custom billet tool steel cam will be the way forward.

They are making them in China, both chilled cast iron and steel billet (I assume for the Japanese market). 50 piece minimum order though. Not worth the cost when a stock cam reground does the same job imo.

Sorry I thought it was the front bearing that was scored. Agree with what lamb_daiquiri said - easy way to check is get a straight edge or ruler and place it on the journals - all the lobes should clear the straight edge. If not the lobes will score the bearings as you slide the cam down the cam tunnel. A bent cam would do this too but you would have issues getting it in and out if it were that bent. No doubt this damage was caused by a person and not the engine during running.