Almost looks like it is from a poorly reground cam, couple of front lobes base circle not ground to the correct size to clear the journal.

Best small Datsun ever. I need to find another one.

I'd get the flywheel and clutch balanced again and be very careful when putting the flywheel back on as mentioned above.

If it does it again I would next pull the whole bottom end out and have the crank pulley, crank, flywheel and clutch all balanced.

4 cylinder motors have inherent harmonics that shake stuff loose. Fairly well known to shake the oil filter loose in a racing A series. If your bottom is even slightly out, 8k rpm and no harmonic dampener will definitely shake a flywheel loose.

I PMd you with my paypal and shipping quote, did you not get it? Never heard back so assumed you didn't want them.

Could you email me volodkovich@hotmail.com I think will be much better than using the #OOPS#ty 1200.com PM system!?

Cheers

Still for sale.

ITEM:
A15 oval Intake & Exhaust flange. 10mm Mild steel. Perfect starting point for a cheap turbo setup!

CONDITION:
Unused, slight surface rust but will clean up

REASON FOR SELLING:
Not needed anymore

PRICE AND PRICE CONDITIONS:
$50usd, $65aud, $70nzd. Happy to ship at buyers expense, paypal payment if overseas.

LOCATION:
NZ

CONTACT:
PM me

PICTURES:

No worries, just trying to help out with cam selection. Sorry if I sounded a bit short!

ddgonzal, respectfully speak for yourself about what you know about cams. You have no idea about others.

The stock cam is 5.65/5.9mm lift at the cam = ~8mm valve. I called for 7.6mm at the cam (hence quoting lobe lift) = ~11mm at the valve, notwithstanding lash.

dhadina, Tell Clive you want something around 232-236@0.050", .300" lobe lift on 106 centres. Tell them it is for an A series but if you want to get keen you can ask for a maximum of 25 inches per second seating velocities @ 7000rpm and a maximum cam profile velocity of 6.5 thou per degree. You don't want a dual pattern for a road car, the extra exhaust duration will loose you low down torque and is only really needed for top end power. Not worth it for a street motor.

Where are you looking at getting the cam ground? Most grinders will have a decent selection of masters to choose that will work well enough.

I'd go for something like 236 degrees @ 0.050" with around 7.6mm (.300") lobe lift, on 106 lobe separation. Just be careful with lift - make sure you have no coil bind on your valve springs.

No need for dual pattern (different exhaust profile) for a simple build. A cam like the above will put your power in the 3500-6500 range so be fine for a 7000rpm shift.

Have you milled the head for more compression?