DatsAndy and pepper....thanks a lot...that was the info i needed...

I decided to give it a go...

Im gonna use the foot, old screw driver tecnic...

I'll tell you guys how it goes...

Any more tips i should know before starting?

Peace...

Hi dear friends...

I come to you once more with a question...

People have always told me that it is very dificult to remove the front windsheild...that due to the design of the windsheild rubber the probability is the the windsheild will crack...

My question is...

Is it possible to remove the windsheild without damaging the weather strip...and if so...lay down some tips...what is the best way to take it out?

Peace...

From what i've been reading, with injection indeed you can control everything...but...it is the same thing as if you add exhaust headers that are too big...the air flow will not go in a straight line as it has much space to float around...with the intake...you need a straight and fast air flow...so that when you press open the throttle you will get a impulse of air...that will send the mixture rapidly in to your chamber...

I know there is more to it...but i haven't read the whole book yet...hehe...

Anyway...people...keep the info coming...peace...

If you go with a bore to big like 40mm or 42mm you will lose air flow properties...the smaller the bore the quickest the air rushes in when you fully open the throttle...

Look at this quote:

" A. What is the best throttle body diameter?

Factors influencing size are: Power output, rpm, cylinder head design, cylinder capacity, position of the throttle body in the inlet tract and position of the injector.

Choice of bore size is a balanced compromise resulting from the following:

1) A larger bore leads to lower flow resistance, but obeying the laws of diminishing returns.

2) A smaller bore leads to better throttle control and response (never underestimate) and improved fuel mixing.

3) The system should be considered in total - from (at least) trumpet flange to cylinder and proportioned accordingly.

Basic references for BHP per cylinder, assuming ca.(ca.= approximately) 120mm from butterfly to valve head and a max of 9,000 rpm are:

Up to 30 BHP/CYLINDER - 30mm
up to 33 BHP/CYLINDER - 32mm
up to 39 BHP/CYLINDER - 35mm
up to 46 BHP/CYLINDER - 38mm
up to 51 BHP/CYLINDER - 40mm
up to 56 BHP/CYLINDER - 42mm
Up to 65 BHP/CYLINDER - 45mm
up to 74 BHP/CYLINDER - 48mm
up to 80 BHP/CYLINDER - 50mm
up to 87 BHP/CYLINDER - 52mm
up to 93 BHP/CYLINDER - 54mm.

These power figures may be increased by up to 10% in a purpose - designed, well proportioned system.

As butterfly to valve distance increases, butterfly size will need to increase in proportion to system taper and vice versa.

Lower revving engines and those with injectors placed before the butterfly will generally accept a larger body. "

from the web page:

ITB's info Site


I also have a book that explain all the whole air flow stuff...so my question is...i know there are a lot of people runing 40mm and 42mm and 38mm...but is it runing at maximum eficiency? are you getting all that you can out the the ITB's?

Big isn't always better...thats why we drive Datsuns and not Mustangs! hehe

Hey...thanks a lot...i searched Google and didnt find any usefull info...hmmm...this is gonna make things easier...

If anyone knows more bikes or something that uses 34mm throttle bodies please write...

Once again thanks a lot sikyne...im gonna start chasing these...hehe...peace...

Hey world...i come to you with another question...

I recently got a A14...and...im thinking of going down the EFI route...and the road i want to take is the individual throttle bodies(ITB's) road...

By my calculations...a NA A14 engine should have ITB's with about 34mm diameter...more than this would be killing low end power...and that i do not want to do...and 34mm would meet the A14 intake port size also...

I have been looking at ITB's form bikes...and they look as the best alternative...the problem is that i am not really in to bikes so i dont know the specs...getting to the point...does anyone know a bike that uses 34mm throttle bodies?

thanks a lot...peace world...

Hi everyone...

This time i need help on a strange issue...i just got a 1981 Datsun Cherry for parts...it is fwd...the owner says it has a A14 in it...

Well after looking at the block i found no A14 forged on it...i checked my 120Y to see where the A12 was stamped on it and it is right under the 2nd spark plug near the distributor...

On the fwd cherry i see no such thing on the block...i looked all around and nothing...all i can see is the block serial number...and M17 which is referent to the model of the car...any help on knowing the engine model? can there be a place on the block i didnt look?

Thanks a lot...peace to the world....

Does anyone know who wrote that in wiki? i would love to send him an email...peaceeeee...

Hi guys...i was reading wiki and i found this

Quote:

But it only says this...can anyone give some more info on this swap...is the whole rear axle a direct bolt in? anything need to be changed? what is the lenght of it? etc...thanks a lot...peace...

Dodgeman when you say "...relatively low mileage street use..." what do you meen? give me a number...hehe...would nissan sell a14 crankshafts? cause over hear in Portugal you can only find A12's...nothing else...peace...