Funny you mention that!
two or three time's in a week it drop's alll reading's (eletric wize )
SpeedO is mechanical so that's fine..
Funny thing is she still run's fine mean time the guages are a sleep. Dash light's wide awake (visibly turned on)!!!!
Two three bitch slap's to the dash and they wake up..
Not saying that's the way fix the fault but at 180k's an hour no indication of any sort spell's trouble sooner or later
???????? ouch $$$$$$$..
That's the head f##k will not do it on request (in the drive way at home or you know at a stationary position).
Been thinking of complete dash rebuild for month's now because of these little fault's auto eletric dude's got less of the idea than I have..
Speedo cable on it's thrid rebuit (inner surplied by auto one) thank's for still having the kit's boy'z.
LOOKING at all digital setup's pricey but sweeeet looking

Yep Yep done all the trouble shotting trick's (all failed to fix the problem).
Even bought another starter motor and had it reconned , the orginal starter motor is getting reconned now..
Never can have to many bit's to sorce from lol. when it come's to motor spare's..
Bloody Mole still did the no action jackson trick.

THUS the Relay is needed..

that's the picture I need thank's for that..



+ 1. from battery to switch
+ 2. to starter from switch ..
- 3. to seat bass then throught to starter housing ..
All cable's run through the ute cab and are ALL massively over killed with an insulated 16mill dia hose .. Now they have five mill insulation.

No bad connection's.
Mullti meter's do not lie Well not this time anyway..
I also soldered the face's of metal surface's where they attached and the same done to the cable eye connection's area's all clean with solder etcher (clean's metal before solidering).
Relay has done the trick
thank's for your pointer's people's..

Earth is fine.

I moved my battery to the back on the tray of the ute .re enforce floor above fuel tank and built alloy battery housing or box
(lockable style) has very own space and I stuck down 2 inch thick rubber to encase the inside of the boxALL SIX SIDE'S..
totally insulated from heat and is also tamper proof. have placed hella battery kill switch in for that over kill look (and safety aspect)..
Battery Massive 600 cold crank amp's should be heap's. power's the sound amp's fine..
Lead's were also replaced with 15 mil dia, at three meter's long,
Being of welding cable's from C.I.G much bigger than standard..
All new and same colour as needed for steve wonder type's so she do not fry.
After booster Replacment,master cyclinder ..
She dos not start every time
This is Dangerouse in the wrong place at wrong time...
But she not play up all the time.
....(thus lack of eletricial grunt)....
She lagg's little bit of power ,click click then she's away.
I know the relay trick but have not installed one for that kind of problem for year's.. 15 year's at least go bless datsun's..
Old ford's have bad name because of fault's like this.
any way have bought the relay,15 amp,wire and fitting's..
Just need picture of the set up to help anyone nutted this one through ..

Thought of that too.
Very hard to find and little pricey for the way I want my weapon headded into low 11,s maybe even 10,s on any quarter mile sling shot run.
Going to push for bigger disc's and spindle's I will change whole mount to suit if it is required. ALL new component's No fear here..
So I went hunting for and a couple of 1974 escort brake booster's and extention,s to move all the master cyclinder the lot to old battary mount located at the extreme front inner right guard ; looking from the driver's seat out..
Had them rebuilt first at $180 each ozzie..
But no I left the drum's on all round..
Had then all skimed by mobil dude..
80 dollar's ozzie for all four Drum's..
Not bad for a Sunday price..

Now I crap my pant's !!
until I'm used to the differecne in preasure needed to apply lol, Heap's less preasure needed now..
Heap's better than the non brake booster master cyclinder style of yester year.
Great as it was in state of the art 1969 time's ..

..Removed 23 mil sit's fine now has maybe 10 mil clearance over the wheel heap's of room.
Even made nice little bed for the spring to reseat it self into .. it seated better than I thought it would ..
Spring had to be reshaped as well lost 4 mill each end . Not to hit the castle nut side of the lower ball joint..
Completed both side's wide up jack 25 mil drill bit. To push the spring off the rubber mount.. and a solid long screw driveror lever to open the gapp that little bit more to release the rubber block .
peace of piss remove the wheel's only hard bit of the total job..
25 minute's each side iin and out..
Smoke and burnt rubber every where Minster of war spewing at Me again. lol . Reshaped them with a grinda..
I did get new set first and doctored the old set incase of the o f### no headache. Just don't know murphy's law thing you all know what I mean..

Massive head ache to organize by the sound of thing's
let alone
The colour loss thing the chrome (false ) as it is it look's, it look's ok for hand full of year's then it look's like bad glad wrap on your salad in the fridge after the family weekend b.b.q..
But I'll give the hammer and dolly a work out and see if it's worth screwing around with . Then there's fitting the strip's !!!!
sound's like I'll be better chassing the earler style rubber .

Any one have the part number b1000 ute front window rubber with out strip option..Please..

That's mint pigdog..
Now I will finish attacking the old rubbish (worn out no fault of it's own).
I've spent many hour's at coventry's with the complete nolathane bush range and a good vernia gauge . I've rebuilt most of the front and rear bush's.
My front spring's haved been reset 25 mil lower than standard ride height.
Back spring,s fifty mill higher because of the 130 litre fuel tank on the tray....
front already hit's high kerb's and
low fly buck's .. SPEED Bump,s look like mount everest when you are dragging your bum., over them feel that high too..
Only chassing 20 mil max more...
WITH FULL FUELTANK AND DRIVER.


She almost ready for major show and tell, not much longer beatie!!!!
rebuilding a 1000 (b10) is fun to say the least EVEN more fun if you got two of them.

I seen that beast on the highway on a trailor at the weekend that yellow weapon of your's dattoman_1000.
Just before the light's on benara road...
the front flare clip orginal by you or a mate or is it standard with catalog number .. look's it looked sexy to say the least.

Done the flare trick to the guard's of my b 10 ute -1000 ute. did not add plastic or fibre glass.
Just two hour's on each guard punding and bending ever so slowly not to split or stretch to far ,the guard's turned out fantasticlly well for my first panel beating job on this ute.
Just a dolly and a hammer. look's mean too.
Now the room above the wheel is greater than before.
What's the best way to adjust front suspenion height in the (my) back yard..
Adding a fat chick do,s not count..
Any body got full understanding or education in this area.. please info greatly receiced.
Tyre change is not happening as the rubber on the back is $250 each at 245's by 70's by 13 and the front are $290 each 225's by 50's by 13's and are all newby's.
Do rub a litlte on full lock..that another story another day..