Hi anglia,

It would be about $40AUD, which is about $30USD.

Like the title says I have a 120y b210 factory tacho meter. $75AUD plus postage and its yours. Good condition but a few scratches on the front perspex. I tested it and it works. It'll go on ebay if no-one here wants it, and the last one I saw went for over $100 US (almost twice as much as what im asking).

Here's the rub; It's a US LHD one and it's caveat emptor if you want to put it into a RHD. But it should work and here's the implications for installation in a RHD:

1) It's a one wire tach, that is, it has ONE black/white wire not two (it also has the red wire and black wire that plug into the instrument circuit board ). I think all RHD 120y wiring harnesses expect a two wire tach. I don't think this would be a big problem at all, but you'll have to look at your wiring diagram convice yourself that it would work. I think you can adapt it either by soldering another black/white wire onto the tach (there is a spot), or just putting t-intersection in where the black/white wires connect on your wiring harness so that the tach is connected and the ignition circuit is still closed.

2) The plastic box that contains it is the opposite way around. i.e, a mirror image. No problem, you can use the box from you old clock or I can supply you with one. Some minor slotting of the backing plate screw holes will be required so the holes line up.

Photos to come.

H is for Hitachi

No secrets to ebay bidding. Work out how much you are prepared to pay then bid once at the end, say about 5-10 seconds before the end. There is no other strategy. Do it manually or use sniping software like hammersnipe.

That's it.

Small or incremental bids are strictly for the mentally deficient, who don't understand the proxy bidding system i.e. you only pay as much the second higest bidder. 1) You wont win the item anyway as typically your max bid will be one small increment above the previous bidder. 2) It just pushes the final price up.

Just installed a factory tach into my 74 120y sedan. I case anyone is wondering I found all the necessary connectors right there taped up on the stock wiring harness, and on the main instrument circuit board.

So no dramas at all. Still took me all friggn weekend tho

Sorry to hear that. Sounds very scary. Have you looked up the following links? You maybe able to find a online group who can help you out.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multiple_myeloma
http://www.ukmf.org.uk/
http://www.myeloma.org.uk/
http://www.myeloma.org/

This 120y tach went for over $100 US on ebay! Astounding since you could probably find a whole car with a tach for close to that.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBa ... m=&item=290074541048&rd=1,1

Thanks Dodgeman I think you've confirmed I was doing everything right (at least theoretically). The car is running much better and I feel in understand all the variables a lot better. It still stumbles just a little going through mid revs under load.

The set of measurements I have ended up with are a bit odd and out of spec. gap 0.3 - 0.4mm, dwell 45

Quote:

It seems to be running best at a large angle like 35

Quote:

I'm still getting seemingly conflicting mearsurements of points gap and dwell, which makes me think (at least) one of my measurements must be wrong - I can't get my gap >0.4mm and dwell angle >49