Hey mate...Does that price include the ute itself?

If the other guys want those parts I may be interested in the ute if the price is right? Can pick up.

Lets just say the side members and cross members then!

This bit here that has been narrowed...

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/7479/p1010057yp2.jpg

The rear chassis rails from the back (including) cab to the rear of the ute

Hi guys, I'm chasing the rear chassis from a 1200 ute. Must be stock.

Surely someone is wrecking a 1200 ute, or about to take one to the scrap metal yard?

Victoria would be preferred but not necessary.

Thanks.

Guys,

I'd seriously just ignore this bloke. He isn't actually as stupid as he makes out. He's been forum hopping for the longest time. I know he's been on Cordiapower.com and Ausrotary.

He basically signs up and posts that same speil for his first post, which generallt stirs people up.

Just ignore him, because the more you try to argue, the more he gets what he wants.

He's only here to stir.

The way kululadotgroen has shown you is probably going to the easiest way. All thats needed it some flat bar, a bender and a drill press.




Short of that, you also have this option that PIGDOG has done. It looks neat as, looks strong as hell. I'd probably go this option if I were you.

Also, when you do mount up the engine/gearbox, make sure you measure the pinion angle on the diff, and make sure the gearbox output shaft is the same angle but opposite to avoid uni joint bind, and annoying vibrations.

*Just to clarify....If pinion on diff points up 3 degrees, make sure the output shaft on the gearbox points down 3 degrees. You could probably run the g/b angle at say 4-5 degrees, as the diff pinion will generally lift a degree or 2 when you nail it*

Diggin up an old post here guys...

Well, I'm at the point where I just need to fit up my shortened diff to finish off all the major work to the drive train. Below are a couple of pics of the standard ute leaf spring mounts. Basically, I need to move the mounts to the inside of the chassis rails (+10mm) and remount them.

For the rear, I was thinking about welding a piece of RHS just inboard of the chassis rail and then make a new mount and attach it. I think this will be the easy one.




As for the front, I'm really not sure what to do here as I want the area to be nice and strong, yet still retain a semi-stock look. The only thing I can think of here is to use some RHS that welds to the back of the cab like the stock spring rail, and merge the two together.




I would appreciate any input from people that may have a better idea for moving the mounts inwards whilst still retaining the strength. I've been through plenty of options and I'm at the point where I need someone else to look at it as it's starting to lose all meaning!!

Cheers...

Do you have any pics of the tray etc where the guiy cut the floor out and moved the rails? Ute is looking good by the way, and I have total respect for you for having a go at it...it's hard work!!

Where abouts in S/W Vic?

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