I had noticed a red 1200 coupe driving around town on a few occassions and I thought I might track the guy down as I was looking for a 1200 to use as a test car (ie for different engines and g/b's). Found out where he lived purely by accident and asked him if he had any other 1200's around. He said staright away that yes, he had another 1200 coupe and 120Y and that if I bought his current coupe off him, I could have the other two cars. Anyway, $100 later and I'm driving this baby home, and I have another whole car plus a whole 120Y for parts. *Does happy dance*

Pics here....

$100 1200 Coupe

Ok, I got your bolt.

If you can e-mail with your address, I will send it off first thing Monday morning.

Cheers.

Leigh

Quote:

Yeah, thats whats got me worried. I'm sure it won't be a major drama after the starter, coild and fuel system are hooked up bu yeah just want to make sure. Obviously I am going to have a lot more trouble if I get an engine and loom that used an auto trans right? I know when I put an sr20det in my pulsar, the loom that cam with it was for the auto box it was matched up to and therefore had a heap of extra plugs and wires coming off. I ditched that loom pretty quick and used the stock sr20de one....worked a treat.

I was just wondering if the wiring of a CA18DET into a 1200 is actually hard work? From my uderstanding, if you sat the engine and gearbox on the floor of your garage, and gave to fuel and spark, it should fire up and run, correct? Keeping this in mind, if the engine is installed and running, would it go ok with only the engine harness and loom connected up, or are there other sensors, ancilliaries and wires that need to be done before it will be properly driveable (apart from the starter etc). Being such a common conversion, there must be some kind of rule of thumb when it comes to wiring up and starting it.

I'm sure a few people would benefit from this information.

Thanks,

Leigh

Might be able to organise this for you. I am going out to have a look at a 1200 coupe for parts tomorrow night. I know the head is off the engine, so I should be able to stand on the pistons while undoing the bolt. Let me know if you still need it.

Cheers.

Leigh

Nah, not silver frost!

This is actually a mixed color (by a panel beater or the like). Say you were getting a full respray to be schmick as.....you'd probably use this stuff as it is a bit brighter than the factory silver/grey but is kind mat looking ie. not metallic.

Is anyone able to tell me what the paint color, or code is of that dull silvery grey that people paint datto grilles in? It's kinda like the factory, but a little bit brighter and seems to be almost a mat finish.

Anyone know what I'm talking about yet?

Anyway, just wanted to get my grille and little windscreen vents painted.

Thanks,

Leigh

Yes, I would have to agree with you here. Everyone is always willing to help and it makes information very easy to obtain. There are a few people that would be getting annoyed with my constant questions, yet they keep replying!

Especially Chris....thanks mate!

Leigh

Awesome. Thanks guys.

So basically, you shouldn't be able to tell if the guards are aftermarket jobs?

Thanks again.

Leigh

Hi guys,

I'm looking at buying some new front guards for my ute and was wondering about the quality of these guards and if there are any fitement issues? We have been getting a bit of rain lately (as the Vic people would know!) and upon removing the kick panels, I can see a gap between the guard and the pillar where the door bolts on (has a little foam sea running from top to bottom) and is letting the water in. The front guards are not in the best shape anyway, so I'm thinking it would be a cheaper option to buy 2 new ones rather than pay to get them all properyl done by a panel beater. So, can anyone tell me if the aftermarket ones are any good? Is the little ridge around the wheel arch still there and does it look natural?

Thanks for the help.

Leigh