Hi All,
Just posting this for a mate.

His Mum used to have a 1200 and the a12 did 45 000 miles before it was pulled out and reconditioned. She then changed her mind and had an L18 transplanted into it instead. So the A12 has sat wrapped up in the corner of the shed for 11-13 years, not used since being reconditioned.

He wants to know if anyone is interested in it.

Cheers.

Hey WhiteSedan,
Cannot tell you what the proper method is, but I am tapping a 10mm hole, putting a stud in and just bolting the manifold to that. Also have to plug up the water galleries coming out of the head.

The ports on the manifold are 30mm too (from memory, don't trust me) and L20b head ports are 34mm so looks like it's match porting time.

And yeah, A14force is right, these manifolds look like they would flow as much air as a fat kid on a treadmill. Nothing porting and a bigger throttle body can't help though..... I hope.

I am actually sitting here at the moment drilling and filing an L20b head to accept an L18 EFI manifold. The stock mounting studs do not line up. You have to drill a 10mm hole between the original bolt holes. Then you have to file out injector notches... wait, I'll just steal someone else's pic...



Stolen from Dave on Ozdat, hope he doesn't mind.

Not bolt on but not too tricky

I know you don't want to sand,
but I used 2 "strip it" discs from bunnings, cannot remember the exact name, they were a blue steel wool type thing on a grinding disc. Cost me a grand total of $30. If I was going to sand a 1959 Cadillac I might opt for blasting of some sort, but on a Datto there isn't very much to sand. I think I had stripped the entire car back to bare metal in 2 weekends, doing 4 hours a day. That was taking my time too. And sanding isn't as bad as it sounds.

I like your thinking!
If 7.6ish was good enough for the 280zxs then I'll give it a shot. Still a bit worried but it may have the added benefit of stopping me being a traffic light hero and snapping driveline components. Only one way to find out. I'll chuck some photos up of the engine next week.

Yep spot on. The U67 has quite large ports but is the L20b open chambered head and would take the cr down to about 7.6:1. This is what I had intended when I started building the engine ages ago but now I'm worried that it will be slower than my push bike off boost. The V91 L20b head would bring it up to 8 but does not flow as well.

Only one way to find out though. I can always give it a go and if it is too much of a pig just change the heads over. Trick there is that I have to grind out the intake ports to accomodate the injectors and tap extra mounting holes. Not too tricky.

Hi all,
just after some advice on a turbo engine I am building. I have the choice between 4 heads, two giving a CR of around 7.5:1, the other two 8.0:1 and 8.3:1.

This is for a daily driver so the 7.5s are out, but I'm not sure which other head to use. My options are
EDIT: should be asleep, I meant to say

L16 open chambered, 38.5cc giving a cr of 8.3:1
L20b closed chambered, 41cc giving a cr of 8.0:1

I know the open chambered heads are supposed to flow better and resist detonation, but 8.0:1 sounds better from a more boost perspective (hoping for ~11/12 psi max). I want the car to be fun whilst still driveable.

Any advice/info would be appreciated.
Oh, and do we have any megasquirt masters on 1200.com?

Can I have one too?

I have an engine build in progress that might interest others.

Cheers.

As for the lowered springs, last time I checked King Springs offered 1200 springs in low and possibly a super low if you ask for them. Swap straight in no problems. Good luck with it.

Hmmm, you wouldn't be building a Low CR L18 turbo motor would you?