my cam is 280 276 duration 295'' valve lift the cam really comes in at 3500 rpm. and pulls hard to 7200.

my carbs are twin 1.5 su's with fairly rich needles. I am using ABZ needles I have tried ABT and ABW theses last 2 rev out at 5500 and 6200 respectivly (see chart at this site to compair needles it is a great site for su's, )

http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/

the distributor is electronic with fire ball ignition and I have matched the timing to be 34' at 3500rpm

Ive got extractors and straight through muffler 2 inch pipe

the fly wheel and crank have not been lightend how much difference will this make?

I am chasing more power for the a14. When I had the engine built, the builder said that bigger valves may be an option in the future if I require "want" more power. I went and visited him the other week and he said that it would cost around $700 for the job maybe 10 hp or so increase.

The front runners in my class road reg under 2l are all moving up to open under 2l next year this will enable me to be nearer the front so some extra power will be handy.

do you think bigger valves will be worth the money? does around 10 hp sound about right?

1200 ute stripped to 700kg
a14, ported head, 280 274 cam, twin su etc
front; 180b struts brakes, 120y sway bar, king springs, kone shocks.
rear; welded diff reversed springs, kone shocks.

ran a 59.43 sec average speed 72.7kph beat some good cars.
mazda 6 mps & mx5
wrx
skyline r32
new honda civic type r
2 westfields

came 23rd out of 40

Thanks for link no idea how to do that.
The run starts at 34 secs as I couldn't edit the video.
The whine you can hear is my diff it only whines when power is applied I am guessing some bearings somewhere in the diff?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fx1QIiRh5WI

My hillclimb at Jacks Hill Wanneroo on sat.

My bet is you will have to sign a statdec sying you are the owner. I had to do this to a trailer I had when I misplaced the transfer papers. Good luck and hurry up and get the car on the road and up to jacks hill for the summer hillclimbs. Can't wait to see another a14 singing.

I think you might be right come summer I will have the same issue in traffic, this did not enter my mind as I was more concerened with the high track temps.

Before I started a had a new thermostat and completly flushed out the system lots of times plus the radiator is only a few years old.

If it stays at 190f whilest stopped in traffic I will make do. (maybe a real thermo fan will help not the non shrouded $15 item off a wrecked car I am currently using) if the temp stays at 180F whilst driving with no fan surely the cooling system is working fine and with a good thermo it should keep the temp down whilst stopped. I will have to wait and see.

I also forgot to mention that the "bash plate" is is definatly in use, I had figured that this was a integral part.

The insulation is called aeroflex I used 15mm internal diameter which is the same as what aircon guys use. you will be able to buy it at any plumbing supply centre.

oh and L18_B110 if you don't mind I was wondering if you managed to sell the ca18 1200 coupe. I would love to have got that car and raced it here in the sprints and later in ipra. I think those pics of it at mt cotton will stay in my head for a long time. maybe at another time I will have the oportunity to buy it
dreaming aaaaaaahhh.

Just something I have picked up and I thought I might bore you all with.

I have read around that after installing an a14, a gemini radiator or an exel alloy radiator will help with cooling. perhaps it is not necessary.

After installing a worked a14 before the summer of last year in my 1200 I realised I had to be very carefull of over heating whilst siting in traffic (quickly climbing above 190f). I had removed the fan and installed a thermo fan which could not cope with siting in traffic , so I would have to cut the engine every time I stoped.

The first hillclimb in dec the engine temp rose to about 190f after 65 sec. The same happend for the rest of the summer series.

Come march and the short sprint of Barbagello the temp got upto 205f before I let off to let it cool down (1 warm up 3 hot 1 cool down lap by the second lap it was hot). I was putting off a bigger radiator for money reasons.

I didn't worry to much as was now coming into winter so instead I bought a bottle of water wetter, not much noticable difference. I then did a tuning day (on a cool day) at wanneroo and still the temp climbed to 210f before I let off. time to sort it out.

I spent some time reserching and found that the engine bay needs a lower preasure than outside to draw through the radiator. Looking at my engine bay there were two great big holes 100mm square either side of the radiator and a 30mm to 40mm gap the between the bonet and the radiator suport the whole length of the bonet. time to seal these up to force air through not around and try and create a lower preasure (air it seems will take the easiest route).

I sealed up the 100mm holes with some sheet metal and the bonet gap with two lots of 15mm plumbers aeroflex insulation cut and glued with silicone so the gap was completly sealed.

Two weeks later I had a long sprint around wanneoo and the temp did not get above 185f. For less then $10 I seem to have fixed a rather big problem. Much rather fix what I have than the spend money on a bigger radiator and have extra wieght up front.



Quite happy with myself.

i just went for a bit off a drive the fumes have droped right off so maybe it was because the engine was cold. idle has droped right off. but a bit of foot work can fix that for the time being.

this car is not my daily drive it used for sprints and hillclimbs i rev up it to 7500 so maybe the catch can isn't a bad way to go. any power gains i would love.
the last sprint I was nearly 2 seconds quicker than a caged wrx and only .4 sec behind a evo 5 i want to beat a few more cars (slowly getting there). First event in november last year i came last, the last event i had 20 cars behind me 60 in front. small gains seam to make big differences.


thanks again

can running the crankcase breather and the rocker cover breather to a vented catch can cause any problems. The pcv system worked fine before with the rocker cover breather to the catch can and the crankcase to the pcv valve however a few people have told me to do away with the pcv valve (race cars do this, small gains in power).
I temporally set it up and i am suprised at the amount of fumes that come out of the catch can (can't be good on power). I am a bit worried that with no vacume the oil might not be drawn down through the engine.

thanks