whats the benifit of the 120y castor rods? are they adjustable or shorter?

thanks

just a thought. the engine builder said that finding the valve springs was a bit tricky because of the lift height. if you were to get an engine built he might be the man to see. my a14 cost 2500 to build. i am very happy with but now thinking how to get more power.

It would be awsome to see another a14 singing at barbagello or jacks hill, hurry up and get it built you will not be sorry.

camshaft engineering company osborne park
9444 7022
cam grind $125 each follower $4.70

those prices were a year ago.
cam grind code 2500
inlet 30 70 duration 280
outlet 65 31 duration 276
lift 295''

very happy with this grind, engine pulls hard from 3000 through to 7500 a bit of a pig to drive in traffic though. doesn't idle the best either. plus these guys have been around for donkeys years, speak to ross, very helpfull

the standard coments i get are,
"go the datto"
"is it for sale"
"f*&K"
"have you got a rotary in there". (usually after screaming at over 7300 rpm).

at the track
"hows your half car going"
i've even had "if you let me buy it you can still race it and i'll be you pit crew'' tempting that one, but no. deep down i don't believe she ment it.

i am also guilty of asking 1200 owners if their cars are for sale.

keep up the good work.

i have got 180b struts and disk brakes. with race brake fluid, sprint/hillclimb pads and the rear dust cover cut/bent to scoop air into the brakes. cost 180b struts $cheap, pads $160, fluid $35. these perform very well with no brake fade and can easily lock up a set of r comps if to aggresive. maybe try to fix up what you have you will be suprised how much more you can get out of them.

sounds like the same head that is on my a14 had double valve springs as well. I posted a picture about a year ago. as it didn't have nissan written on it I asumed it wasn't a gx head

i hope i don't get in to trouble for changing the oil today!!! please give me the name of the insurance company that pays out for engine repairs on cars that have been worked on by qualified mechanics.

by the way don't let the plumbers licencing board catch you changing your own tap washers

I have been driving around for about 3 weeks now on a welded diff, i have not yot tried it out on the track but even on the road i feel like i am in more control. when i put my foot down round a corner it powers through where as before, it felt like it coasted around corners. Even in the wet it feels good (driven carefully) before was a nightmare to get traction. I should have done it ages ago (i had nothing to loose as i have 2 h165).

can't wait to try it on the track so i can keep power on through the tight corners as my inside rear wheel always picks up of the ground.

maybee the best $0.00 i spent yet.

my opinon is as mini spool's are illigal why waste you money just weld it up with some plates in the center (nice and strong).

drive safe.

I want to go out there and a fun but once i started spending on it I want to makes sure the car is capable of going the next step further.

I have already spent close to 12k on my ute and am now realising that i will be limited to what i can do and where i can race not that i regret any of it. I could keep spending on it but i don't think it is worth it. time to upgrade to a more suitable car.

thanks for all you advice i now have a few decisions to make.

That impress's me

I have been racing my a14 ute now for about 8 months. I am never going to be competitve in my class road regestered under 2 litre, some very fast cars in this class. however the little ute gets a lot of positive coments from people and i have got some good times (even beating two 5l 928's and a 911 around barbagello short track).

I am looking into the future and trying to decide what to look for (my ute is stuck in speed events) . I was thinking of a jap import s14 but i love the datsun so much and it i know how well they handle (be it a ute).