I know this has probably been discussed a million times but what is the best conversion to fit a brake booster to a 1200 ute/A15.
With the least modifications.
I basically just want to improve the standard brakes.
Thanks for any advice.

Hi. Checkout this site and it may help you with the part numbers - they may even be cheaper than rare spares. Let us know how you go.

http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/1200ute.htm

Yep. You are right. My ute has a build date of 7/85. It is interesting to note as well that it has no datsun badging on it - all Nissan logo's.
Not sure what else they may have changed mine has retractable belts, park brake light on top of dash, tacho, disk brakes etc.....
As MadTimo asked (sorry about the car by the way) how do tell what diff is in it??
Also my odemeter has stopped working. Speedo still works and the "meters" dial still works but nothing else. Is this common - can it be repaired?

I have managed to get hold of an aftermarket one. The part number is STR412. This is what my local parts guy matched up when I told him what i wanted. It is made by 555.
The only question is I have got under the car and checked it out before opening up the new one.
My one (A '85 Datsun Ute) has a straight drag link with the necessary eyes on either side to mount the tierods and idler/pitman arm etc.
This new part I have has a slight bend at either end. It is the same length but a different shape. (Sway bar type shape)
Are these parts the same throughout the range or did they change them.
Are 120y's different or the same.
Its got me puzzled

Hi Guys, I'm in the middle of a front suspension/steering overhaul on the ute. It has the usual wheel wobble/shimmy etc etc.
I have located and purchased new lower ball joints, inner tie rod ends, outer tie rod ends, idler arm bushes, new front shocks and springs etc etc.
Problem I'm having is locating a CENTER TIE ROD. The one that links the idler arm and pitman arm together (long one).
Has anyone replaced one of this??? If so who makes them and what sort of price?
Also can you get re/co steering boxes (exchange perhaps) or is it easier to do one up.
Thanks.

Thats ok. Im on my 6th coffee in about 2 hours so I'm probably a little hyped up anyway. I just start to ramble.

Yes. I think you aare referring to the vacuum advance on the dizzy. You simply remove the dizzy cap so you can see inside, remove the vacuum hose going from the carby to the dizzy (from the carby side) and suck on the hose - if working correctly this should move the vac advance plate inside the dizzy. when you stop the vacuum it should return to the original position. This part works ok.
ddgonzal is referring to the mechanical advance setup (weights and springs) that get thrown out under speed thus moving the plate and advancing the ignition, I think what he was getting at was that after they are getting thrown out and advancing they may be sticking and keeping the ignition advanced after backing off the throttle causing the ignition to remain advanced. I will have to look into it.
As for the carb , cheers just let us know how you go.

To / 1200rallycar,
By all means. If you happen to come across a decent one drop us an email and i could organise something with you. I should be able to organise the necessary adapter plate down here somewhere or even through mail order.

To/ ddgonzal,
Actually you raise a good point there that I may have over looked "the mechanical advance".
I take it what you are saying is that evrything runs fines maybe a couple of times or so under heavy acceleration but sometimes is not releasing from the advance position after I back off the throttle?
In theory this would make sense as to what happened the other day. As after a minute or so and a some light throttle applications it probably free'ed up and returned to its position thus the pinging stopped.
I did check this with the dizzy cap off in the usual manner turning rotor and ensuring it springs back ok but maybe it is sticking out on the road if driven hard.

The more i think about this i reckon i'm chasing two different problems
1) Vaccuum leak at manifold & throttle shafts causing the weird idle.
2) Possible the advance mechanism or something causing this pinging problem.

If 1200rallycar could source a good carb then i would go that way to start with as i dont really fancy spending any money doing the Hitachi.

Anyway I can prove this is the mech advance other than a dizzy rebuild?

Thanks.

you are right there 1200rallycar, they should be easy enough to come acroos at the price you mentioned but unfortunately down here in Tas we are about 15 years behind everyone else. Most wreckers are very hard to deal with, have nothing and if you do manage to find what yoyr after they want top dollar. I found a couple of 32/36's that would have been ok - I was told $120 just for a carb! and the thing would have needed a full strip down and repair as well. These are the type of clowns I have to deal with down here.
Once upon a time i lived in NSW so I can appreciate the difference. Up there, there is plenty of competition down here no one seems to give a $#%##@%$#@
I need to find a good mail order place i think.
I fell much better now getting that off my chest.

Back Again....
I checked the valve clearances - all good apart from Number 2 and 3 exhaust valves were both a bit tight(.010") adjusted them up so they are all fine.
I was starting to think I was having a win and convinced it was a vacuum leak/leaks somewhere........took it for a decent drive went fine, accel good, idle still a little erratic but still convincing myself vacuum leaks.....then came the highway run.
1,2,3,4, gear all smooth under light or heavy acceleration, next to no black smoke, now here comes the biggest gremlin of all.
After about a minute of highway driving about 100kph i accelerated hard up until about 130 then let it coast back to about 100 again - everything fine. I repeated this a couple of times still ok came to a bit of a hill put the foot down again to check it out...........seemed to be hesitating / flat spotting up slight hill.....went to accelerate hard again and it started PINGING ITS HEAD OFF! I eased up straight away and under light accel it was not to bad and after about another 1km of light driving I could accelerate hard again and it was ok.
But repeat that same process again same conditions, time frame, engine temp etc the same thing will happen. WHY THE PINGING!!!!!!!!really bad.
Engine temp guage read ok whole time.Returned home double check everything for the 2 billionth time. Dwell, timing, float level, vacuum advance etc etc etc. Cant fault anything.
I cant see anything carby wise that can cause this can it???????????????
HELP I'M RIPPING MY HAIR OUT!!!!!