Not exactly... With twin carbs, they are jetted identically. If it is running rich, you need to lean out both carbs, as each cylinder is(should be)identical to the others. For twins or tripples of course you will also need a syncroniser to balance the idles and mixture adjustments..

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I just got a portable Air/Fuel ratio meter from www.innovatemotorsports.com. I used it to jet my Weber 32/36 last week! It uses a wide band O2 sensor to measure your mixture in real time. You just need to weld in a sensor bung in your exhaust just after the collector(the meter comes with a bung and a plug) This is one of the few affordable meters that's supposed to be really accurate.

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It seems strange that the Mikuni-solexes are cheaper down under... Here in the USA they sell used about 20-30% more expensive than new Webers! Ddgonzal is right on the money when he said the Solexes were the #1 choice for vintage Datsuns. No self respecting Datsun racecar would run Webers when Mikunis are available. Although those carbs are discontinued, parts and jetting is still available from Rebello race engines and Wolf Creek Racing. It has been my understanding that for the same choke size, a Weber will flow slightly more than a Mikuni, and a Dellorto will outflow either(Doesn't really matter though, 'cause you can just go up in choke size.)The Mikuni, however does stay synced and in tune best, plus they're super easy to change chokes and jetting. I had a pair of 44 Mikunis on my 510 for 4 years and they never needed adjustment! They'll be going on my 1200 road race car.

The ones from ProdBodies are just door skins. They say they save you about 4 lbs.. But the skin is the lightest part of the door, it's the frame I want to replace. I guess I'll be making my own molds.......

Really think the stock doors are that light? I've been restoring some doors lately so I've been lugging them around the yard, and they don't seem that light to me... I'm thinking about glass doors for a racecar.

Anyone ever hear about someone making fiberglass Coupe doors?

Wow..... What a bunch of monkeys! They've got that way cool road coarse and they're slidin' around it... Talk about the slowest way around a race track!

This has worked for me... Put the wheel back on, leave the nut on but loosen it all the way to the end ( to keep the wheel from smacking you in the face if and when it comes off!) then whack the back of the wheel spokes as close to the hub as you can get with a rubber or plastic mallet (plastic works better)

Thanks for the info ddgonzal!!

Hey silvia-specr, where'd you go? I've sent a couple PMs about those possible seat belts... I could really use 'em!