The slightly stuffed A15 (typical of the rubbish import motors we get in South Africa)

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Thought I would post a few pics of my project,

Aim is to race the car in Marque class circuit racing here in South Africa, rules as follows:
100% street legal
1975 and older rear wheel drive
Full interiour
Street tires
Only of era drive line modifications alowed (nothing to crazy either)
No body work modifications out of era / taste of classic cars

Basicaly a street car that near stock with a modded motor and crazy driver (absolutely no touching alowed). We race on a handicap system which is a good thing because I am up against a hose of 911's, Alfa's, Lotus Cortina's, Lotus 7's ectr.

Project will start off with all driveline work and then be stripped once the combo is working and will have a full body restore.

I will post the mods as they go, but here are some pics with the first throw together A15 I used to test the combo and see if it was going to be enough power. (there are some video's on youtube if you search for rezlo33)

Datsun beat all the others cars on her first outing and really surprised me with its ease of handeling and good cornering ability on the mildly work suspension,
Datsun did a 1.25.1
Lotus Cortina 1.26.0
Dart 1.28.5
911 1.29.1
and so on so I was very happy with its performance even though the 5sp box got locked into 4th on the last lap and put me out of the points, lucky it was just a bolt on the selector shaft that rattled loose.

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Any idea why the A-series like to blow out the coolant till it has a 15-20mm air pocket in the radiator? it always worries me a bit especialy when im racing. I am running a 1.1bar cap on an aftermarket S13 radiator and it still will blow out about 200ml of coolant if i top it up (in hope to let it cycle coolant in and out of the coolant catch tank I build)

I agree, do it body color. Looks uncomplete in black...

Nothing quite shows quality than an engine bay that is painted as well/shiney as the outside of the car!

Good place to start would be a exhaust manifold upgrade, good exhaust (52mm) and a mild cam... after this a carb upgrade is in order and makes a huge difference. there are quite a few posts around on mods so try search, there is also a whole article in wiki.

Just remember before any mods get the car running perfectly on the stock motor, its amazing how much power is lost due to incorect timing, plugs, dwell, carb adjustment ectr.

No problem,

Just as an FYI, if you put turbo pistons into it youll only loose a few KW if you keep it NA, if you keep it NA then turbo it you can only run very very minimal boost, so if your on the fense about turboing it, rather fit the turbo pistons and know you can do it safe, because we all land up turboing it

The DET FWD and RWD pistons and rods will fit right into a DE, for you it will work well because it will drop your compression as well which is what you need if your turboing it... stock good condition DET rods and pistons can hold a good amount of power if you tune for zero detonation.

The only DET rods that wont swap over is the GTi-R rods because they are 2mm wider.

If you have the time and money it doesnt hurt to convert the DE to use the DET's oil pump and to fit piston squirters as fitted to the DET,, though with all that work you might find it easier to just buy a DET and be done with it

Thanks DD,

I could not imagine driving my car round the track with the heater on to try remove some temp, its very hot in summer here!

I am running BP7's at .75 to .8mm with a MSD blaster SS coil, no problem

What pistons did you use in your A15?

Using a big VDL cam I presume?

My 1200's heatbox's control pannel is stuffed anyways, no heater + the coolant control valve is stuck shut,

I havent seen blank off's, will go pick up a plug today and make another hose joiner without run off...

The way I see that diagram is that with the heater off its got no coolant flow, with the heater on its removing temprature, so by blanking the hoses and removing it will act just like a stock setup with the heater turned off...