I had this problem when i fitted my later year 5sp to my 1200,

Problem was solved by machining a very simple ally bushing with small lip, so the smaller cable couldnt slide threw the large whole in the box...

Custom bell housing to suit escort, so its got no reference,,,

It doesnt look like any 56a or 60 ive seen though,, which is why I ask

Trying to work out what box this is, owner thinks it might be nissan, ignore the bell housing as its custom made to fit an escort

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I also have a removable plate on my one timing cover for my adjustable cam gear, for me it isnt about doing power adjustments, its more about dialing the cam in where it was specified to work. Your cam will be a regular regrind, thus if its over 290deg the chance of it being at optimum cam timing for your setup is fairly slim.

Just an FYI, My bone stock A12 never once went leaner than 14.2, I tried to play with the jetting a tiny bit which resulted in slightly better AFR's but the car ran like rubbish, seems as they like to run slightly on the richer side of things. Anyone else notice with when using a wideband on a stock A-series?

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Except that Euro emissions complient cars almost always run at stoich during normal drive cycle, and use the sensor to activate short and long term trims to keep it at stoich besides for WOT

The datto is at stoich almost never which means all the gauge will show is rich or lean and never give actual info that can be used to set up any form of tuning or mapping.

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Narrow band = non linear 0-1V
Wide band = Linear 0-5V

95% of wideband kits now use a gauge with all the hardware in the gauge and are small and compact such as AEM.

I run a PLX in my Datsun when I make jetting changes, I think maybe 5% of the time it actualy sits on stoich, never the less I think a $300au wideband is cheaper than rebuilding a motor, thus I use what works when making changes or trouble shooting

ARP often use a lower torque value than stock because the thread is finer (which still means it can actualy have a higher clamp load)

Think of a con rod and how the big end cap bolts to the rod, the more clamping force you give it the more out of round the circle will become and thus you need to then resize the rod. What I said is the A-series rods are quite resiliant to going out of round when adding a little extra clamp load by using ARP (some rods can go way out of spec)

ARP A-series rod bolts do not need to be pushed in, they slide in with just finger force just like the stockers.

While resizing is the correct thing to do, I have never needed to resize an A-series rod after fitting ARP's when the ARP's are torqued to the correct settings, all of them have stayed perfectly in spec (unlike SR20 and RB's that can put the big end way out of round) Either way you need to measure as every motor is slightly different.

R750 for ARP a-series rod bolts? I usualy sell them 10% cheaper than that, the last 10-12 sets anyways.

Im not staying its right to reuse them, you SHOULD change them, but, that said I personaly never have on an A-series due to the cost far out weighing the risk. on every single V8 I ALWAYS change them, but then the cost is minimal like a few hundred rand vs A-series at a few thousand.

I have used VDL, then switched to Goch&Cooper, they are the best regrinders in SA in my opinion, Deon is very helpfull and the 296 profile him and I put together works amazingly well, even as a street car it idles at 950rpm no problem and has plenty of mid range and top end, on the A12 it might not be so friendly, but what I found is that Deon actualy listens to the customers request,