A12-15 all use the same ARP rod bolt. In the 3 sets I have installed not one of them pulled the rod out of round enough to require re-size.

I use the ARP head studs as well just to be on the safe side, though OEM (not cheapie parts shop) ones should be just fine, I also reuse the stock main and flywheel bolts.

As far as reving to 8000rpm on on a 276, when i was running my VDL 280 it used to fall off totaly at 7500rpm, even my G&C 296 only keep the power up to just over 8000rpm, one of the biggest problems our cam grinders have is not wanting to change the LCA, most of them keep them at/close to stock = 110+ which isnt great, I have had 3 cams cut at 296 with 105-108-110 LCA and the difference in mid range and top end is amazing!

Ohh and when you find somone who can resurface lifters let me know, in not one of my motors have I ever bothered to resurface them due to the cost for lifters being more than a replacement motor, that and when I last checked no one in SA resurfaced&harden them. Three of the motors have already had 2 year freashen ups and not one of them is showing any form of abnormal cam or lifter wear. Though I do agree that they should be part of a cam change!

It is usualy a "washer" that is put in place of the thermostat when using an electric waterpump, you change the ID of the "washer" to get your correct flow rate, best measured by checking actual flow as well as the differential temp between engine in and engine out at WOT. It is not uncommon to use restrictors in more than one place.

Being an HVAC engineer at one of the largest automotive OEMS, on most every car I have ever tested, the pressure in the block has never been 2-3psi higher than radiator with the thermostat open (obviously closed is a different story, but how often is it closed in race conditions?) If you think the block is magicaly presurised by the thermostat then how do cars that run pre pump thermostats also generate slightly elivated block pressures?


Your biggest problem with removing the thermostat besides for the mechanical clearances is actualy flow not pressure, to much flow = not enough time to absorb the heat, this is why systems are are open loop use restrictors to slow the flow in key area's.

Again, 95% of above info is totaly pointless in the A-series unless your aiming for 180+hp

If Mr. Racetech was able to make 20+psi of block pressure he wouldn’t need to worry about a radiator cap strong enough to hold it, he would need to worry about his AGB bursting and his radiator end takes blowing off.

Running 20+psi on anything but a dedicated race car is not safe, and not needed unless you have a drastically inadequate or poorly setup cooling system.

I think a lot of people forget that in the 70's people made massive power with great reliability out of the A-series on almost stock cooling systems in full race conditions.

You want the larger water pully, larger = slower moving.

and some import A15's as well,

Racetech, run your origional A12 crank pulley and water pump pulley.

Then Nissan is installing a lot of chinese pumps at the factory maybe the older A-series are all cast. I have a whole pile of OEM pressed pumps laying in the scrap pile from the various A-series donor motors I have built. Note that the majority of these motors are 1985 and newer. That said I purchaced a bunch of old A-series race parts a little while back from Japan, of the 3 pumps I received all of them were OE with a lightly modified pressed impeller.

Nope,

Just an FYI, The Tomei TS as well as most of the A's running in full race conditions to this day still use stock pressed water pump just with a small amount of the ear's removed to slow the flow rate (as do most of the newer full race SR's, RB's etc)

I am not saying cast isnt better, it just isnt needed.

On that note, I am running a regular $10au cheapy auto parts store water pump with pressed impeller.