My fans never run more than 50% duty, and its been stupid hot here recently, zero problems

I wouldnt touch those DC electric pumps, seen two fail already for no reason costing the owner a motor each time.

As with everything datsun, keep it simple (my system is stock besides radiator and fans) and 95% of the time it will work just fine for even the most demanding situations

Hah, sorry, I didn’t see this thread moving,

My gauge going up and pushing coolant was due to my radiator being ¾ blocked from scale from my old A12 before I stuck the A15 in, I flushed the radiator a few times and not a single problem,

I run the A12 crank and water pump pulley (slow combo) and I ran her to 8500rpm for the whole 90minute spring bok series enduro without the gauge ever going past 1/3 temp, not a drop of coolant lost. Earlier that day we had 3X 10lap sprints, again not even 1 drop lost and it was 30+deg as seen below

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNhRy_lI9Jw Now i just need to make a race car, running a marque car with those race cars on slicks was kak!

As per ddgonzal,

Aiming for 200-240hp NA on a A15 you can plan on spending R75k without breaking a sweat, even 175hp thats reliable youll be spending R50k odd

Ive seen two ute 1uz's, the 1uz is cheap as chips in SA, both were still auto's.

Odd, with my stock weight B110, stock brakes (only change is later year champ calipers) and hot A15 ive never seen the need to upgrade the brakes, even in a 90min enduro she ran flat out with never even a hint of brake fade...

Problem with the S13 ones is that once youve made an adjustable top spring hat the suspension sits up a bit higher than it used to, not a problem for those with coil overs on the front, but for some running fixed lower purches this can be a problem Busy machining a new set of upper spring hat from scratch to try solve this.

From experience, if you skim the block more than 1.5 or 2mm you need to load the head studs or bolts a few times before you do your finnal pass in the mill, reason being that it will make a slight buldge around all the head stud holes (besides oil hole) due to the slight change in loading area, also a good idea to add a tiny champher as the threads start to stop the top thread pulling up slightly.

I have seen people taking 4mm off between head and block, one must just remember to take into account what it does to the rocker angle, for most that run cut cams its actualy good because it makes it easier to get the perfect rocker ratio.

mine actualy went tight, very very firm, I tried rocking it back and forth but nothing,

Is it just me or is there a major trick im missing with getting the tail shaft housing back on, i see the manual says rotate the shift mechanism anti clockwise when you install, i tried everything, wont go on, not realy a massive problem as I plan to have my trans guy that does my race cars box's go over it and measure all the gears and shims etc,,,

I have a 60 series box out of a late model Nissan Champ (A14) 5 speed in my B110 that I race with, its held up amazingly well besides getting jammed in 4th twice now...

First time was on the track, leasurly down shift and it just wouldnt budge, i tried everything but to no avail, took the box out and took it to my transmission guy, he said one of the selector bolts (10mm head i was told) came loose, he just nipped it up with some loctite, I put box back in and was on my ways, lasted over 18 months now (20 race events including enduro's) and about 10 000km's...

On the way to work last week I was giving a V-tak-yo guy a leason on old school power, took her up to 8400rpm in 4th and as I went to 5th it would not budge, same as last time, drove it home in 4th (real fun with a 2.8kg flywheel) stripped the box out and opened it up, besides the hate of gear oil I could see nothing, the only 10mm head bolt is the one that holds the wedge for the selector, it was tight and in place... after fighting with the box trying to get the tail housing back on for an hour i admited defeat... besides that the parts shop gave me the wrong clutch, this one is 10mm larger disk and doesnt suit my flywheel...

Taking it back to the trans guy on monday, just wondering if anyone else has every seen or heard of this happening? changing clutches every time sux!

One thing im happy about is that the gears look 100% new having only ever ran on Redline light weight shock proof (smurf blood)

Do you know if the MX5 uses a drilled or slotted oiling channel behind the oil control ring? that is one of the main reasons they fail in higher RPM situations.