i think it's the jap one cos its a 1974 model, i thought the bw diffs came in the july '76 sedans. so i guess mine will have h145.

They dont come around too often though do they? 1200 diff.

my crappy diff is skrewed, has diff whine and the bearings have just recently decided not to be nice. i have the 1974 120y hatch back, which i think has the weaker diff in it? ive just dropped a lumpy a14 in it so something with strenght would be good. what have you guys put in your beasts?
later model diff, rebuild this one? stanza? 200b? i did look in the tech section but it doesnt show which are easier and better.
thanks

the regulator in my 120y doesnt seem to work, it's pumping out 16 volts. seeing as though i dont want to replace the battery every little while i want to put in an alternator with an in-built regulator to make it easy. is it only the vanette that had them?
cheers

no deal. tried it, tried using the nut and thread to pull itself out with a bit of piping and it didn't budge. i'll probably just send them into a shop to get done. thanks anyway

i'm changing my front strut inserts on the 120y and have the top colar nut off, but the old insert is not budging.
how do i get it out?
cheers
pete

if your using the round ports temporarily, does it matter if you use an oval port inlet manifold? it'll produce some eddies in the flow but should be alright yeah? and can just squeeze the water hose shut yeah? no? maybe?

how do you get to be so smart? are you from nasa or something? i'm upgrading to twin webers so old one will be out the door, but will look into it. cheers

only when cold, but, more violently than normal, you literally cant go anywhere. but will clean the carby thoroughly and go through the wiring to see any faults or burns.
thankyou for your help

back fires only when motor is cold (within 1st 2 mins of startup tops). engine will backfire when the throttle is opened, throttle also seems to cut the engine out when opened and only resumes reving when you take your foot off, so to keep it running quick blips are needed. most backfiring occurs under the initiation of load. i have a 32/36 weber and an electronic dizzy (dont know what from), new leads, and plugs. timing is a little out but need to adjust dizzy to get right. and this arvo it backfired big and a puff of electrical smoke came out from under the dash, definetily electrical smoke, i checked the engine bay and was mint, but all electricals still work, lights, dash, radio, etc etc.
can anyone help pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeease
tahnks