hey all. sorry guys it's gonna be long boring one, cause i dont know much about it.
I just jumped the gun without knowing what brand of distributer it was in the a15 and bought a fire-ball electronic distributer conversion and lucky for me it doesn't fit.... but since auto barn dont want to refund me and i dont want to try and sell it on ebay for less than i payed for it I thought it might be possible to make it work, only i have little to no idea about distributers.
Now I know that it's connected to the cam with the little cog thing and it spins, theres 4 little notches at the top of the cog shafty thing that kick the little bits of metal bar things that have the points on them in and out so the points open and close... but thats about it i dont know how the rotor cap gets it's spark to send to the spark plugs or anything..basically I really dont understand but im willing to learn.
I have searched the interwebs but all it's telling me is new cars dont have distributers, so i suppose its pretty helpful...
now the ignition kit comes with a little light that looks like this
----|
|--O <--black led
|
|--O <--white led
----|

and a plate that looks like this

## ##
#### ####
##### #####
############
# #
############
##### #####
#### ####
## ##
The centre of the plate goes over the shaft that has the notches in it
and the light goes over the plate like this

----|
|--O <--black led
| ######################
|--O <--white led
----|
and as far as i can tell (i could be wrong) the notches in the plate line up with notches on the shaft and the light picks up the gaps in the plate while it's spinning and tells the little black box what is going on & it says "hey! Im gonna send a bit of spark somewhere"...
ok now that ive kinda badly explained what the deal is my problem is lining everything up
now first question would be ---- when does the spark get sent to the plugs, when the gap is open or closed?
2nd question would be would it be right to assume that if i were to set the gaps in the plate up to the notches in the shaft and then set the light up so that it "saw" the gaps in the plate at the same time as the spark was sent from the points to the plugs (question one) konwing that the points are no longer in the distributer.......

Hey um..
i just got the a15 head ported and the bloke says that it's like flowing 130 on the bench.... i dont understand can someone explain for me pleas in not as head saavy as i may seem.. is 130 good oraverage or what..

im gonna be putting an a15 into my car in about 3 weeks and pulling the a12 out. it's been totally rebuilt, new timing gears and chain. $900 spent on head and cam. bored 20 thou high performance bearings done about 2000ks since rebuild. icluded is the orig intake and exhaust which i have kept it was doing 50.6 rwhp with webber and exhaust very neat little package. now i don't need to sell this but also i dont need it hanging around the shed what would you pay for it if your offer is decent it's yours.. i want atleast 650 for it but i dont know what these engines are going for so be fair.

yeh round port a12
um so your saying unless i spend a little wad of cash on the a15 it's probably not worth putting in??

na it's stamped a15 on the block which i wasnt expecting as my a12 is ground into the head....
but the guy i brought it off was sure it was an a14.. so hmm yeh
but as far as work done to my a12
ive had the head ported polished and flowed
a14 valves
3/4 race cam
bored 60 thou
4 into 1 header
intake manifold to suit 32/36 webber
balanced and blueprinted
aluminiuim radiator
im hoping to use my intake and exhaust
system on the a15 aswell as the carby
and obviously the radiator

Hey i just came across what apeard to be an a14 engine but after stripping it down it has turned out to be reconditioned a15..,.
it looks as though it's been bored out 20thou and a little bit of head work done, cam reground, crank regound, would it be worth sticking it in my 120y??? i currently hav a pretty worked a12 under the bonnet pushing out 50.6 RWHP, would i be getting more from the slightly worked a15??

went for a dyno tune this arvo $100 :)
first run was bout 30 then he did some #### with the dizzy and fuel ratio and got it to 36.6Hp @ 7300RPM
im going back next week hes got an a15 or a14 engine i can have for $120 looks in really good nic and a set of extractors for $50 sitting there so whole 2" exaust system $400 he rekons that it's backing up real bad, also he gonna do my power valve the higher i rev the richer the mixture he reckons itle be 48+ HP after that thats like over 30% increase in POWER :)

Cheers for the info na it's not got a rise kit the mags are 14/6 w1th 195/65 tyre so it makes it look higher, yeh i had to put the alumnium on the dash cause who ever had it b4 me smashed it out to put a sterio in and fked it bad was easy to do just got masking tape and filled in the area then peeled it off and traced around it onto 1/16 alloy same for glove box, ive got Stainless bolts in there now looks abit nicer, and i also but alloy around the sterio controller that was a little bit more tricky/time consuming.

Cheers!
yeh im in SE QLD
I don't know much about doing up engines most of the stuff ive done is info i got off this site... so ive got a few questions. what size exhuast do i put on, how do i make the vacume advance work with the webber, i think the webber is pumping too much fuel how can i make it...less just it smells real fuely and sometime if i rev to hard the engine dies a bit like it's flooding. how do i get a cheap A series datsun 5 speed??!!??!
what else can i do to make it bit faster without changing it TOO much...?
:)

Nearly Finished 76 120y sedan

As it was


As it is


Interior (more done since time of pic)



Note engine bay photo b4 paint job



Engine Balanced and blueprinted
Lumpier cam
bored 60thou
32 36 dgv webber
head ported and flowed a14 valves
Manual conversion
alumnium radiator