Selling two Datsun 1000 Coupe rolling shells, The Yellow car is an older resto and has some rust in the sills and floor, the white one is very rusty and a parts only vehicle, the white car has a disc brake conversion and a bigger diff. Great project car for Drag or Race car, super light body so with the right engine fitted would make it an extremely quick car, I also have lots of other parts to make this into a road car except seats. Open to offers.

The new Bosch Platinum plus are a good cheap alternative. Use standard heat range to start with and see how they go.

Set your thermo fan to cut in at 185C and cutout at 182C and you should have no dramas

Find someone with a infared temp reader to check your temp gauge is reading correctly

If its jammed open just check if the water is flowing when the motors cold. Easy

180c is normal operating temp

With a fully pressurised system the motor can run up to 110C quiet safely and it is not overheating, above 120C start to worry.

Hi, Another cause of overheating if you are running at high revs is water pump cavitation. I had this problem with running sustained high revs for extended periods. The fix was an external pressurised expansion tank, never had a problem after that. But I was right with the seal.

Been reading all the max rev stuff. Well back 30 years ago I was running a A10 motor to 9000Rpm on standard Datsun 120Y variable rate valve springs with not a hint of valve bounce, I was running a 268Deg Waggott Cam twin 40mm Webers and a 12 pound flywheel. The only problem I had was the oil pump supply. I ended up shearing the thrust faces off the centre main bearings and the A10 only had three. This was after about 20,000Kms of hard driving including normal road use Gymkanas and Hillclimbs.

If you have any sign of coolant leaking from the front seal it will be the internal ceramic seal in the water pump which can leak intermittently, that could cause overheating, also check the radiator cap. Hope this is of some help.