rgrinder,

thanks i got them.

lobster, yes the pigtail is connected....all those I visually recall is connected

ddgonzal, this model came into the Philippines as a low-cost car and there is not much modification done...I don't think it have an ignition relay (although I don't know yet) and definitely not electronic ignition because it got the contact point...there is a possibility too that the wiring was modified by the previous owner/s...and I'm not sure what model is it called - it does have the A12 engine and the body of the later model ute (like the roadstar) but with a different grill and headlight (rectangular shape and not the round ones).

yes, please....my ute is "new" release (1989-91) but the 71-73 is the basis of this so I suppose it should work.

I did some "dumb re-wiring" on my ute and now I can't seem to figure out if I did some wrong connections in the distributor connections coz I can't make it work (starter is working but it just won't burn the fuel).

you could email it directly to me (if you can scan it) at my email: whyldthing@yahoo.com

thanks.

Is there anyone who could lead me where to download a wiring diagram of the nissan ute?

Have you tried taking it out, scan it and edit it (or make it reverse color - white background) print it on a good sticker and put it back on the old gauge face?

I have to say ddgonzal did a good job in helping me out on a similar problem on my A12's hitachi carb. Check out his article.

Bottomline, the possible cause were:

- A leak in the vacuum.
- Air getting inside the fuel reservoir of the carb due to "air leak" in the carb top gasket.
- A non working plunger.

One more thing to add was the fuel level inside the carb was too low. When my mechanic tried to increase the fuel level inside (this was beyond the factory specs) I solved the problem. The catch here is that the level should not be high that it chokes itself.

my 2 cents.

I've change my ute alternator too. I got it from a store that sells imported used engine and engine parts for US$30. It have a nissan logo and I suspect that it could have come from any of these nissan bluebird, cefiro or altima.

It is a rated 90amp alternator....my life have never been better since - quick charging of my batteries, no more problems with all (lights on high beam, wiper on fast mode, aircon on - a typical drive during a rainy night).

Best of all, it fits right in without any modifications. I brought my old unit along so I could check if the mountings are the same.

One more thing, there was no need for the bulky voltage regulator of the old alternator because the new models comes with an internal "IC" voltage regulator.

The electrical shop charged me about US$3 to place it but I think you can DIY it.

I'll check out your insights....I think I should look back on the rebuild of that carb...

few things I noticed:

1) I over adjusted the float (the level is a bit lower) than the middle (some sort of a 'dot') in the view glass.

2) I didn't change the carb top gasket...there could be a leak that's why it is not idling low.

3) the ball bearing you mentioned is in place but there is another "hole" but my stock does not have a ball bearing but rather a stainless hexagon metal with one end flat and the other pointed (the pointed end meets the bottom hole)....I tried substituting this with the ball bearing provided in the carb kit (but since it was for an A10...I'm not sure if caused my problem)...but the lowest idling was about 2000 rpm....when I put back the original hex-sided stainless metal, the lowest idling dropped to 1000 rpm....we figured that the weight of the ball bearing was not enough to stop the gas...so the idling was higher...but I didn't assume that the gaskets could also be the culprit...


Anyways, its a holiday here for us tomorrow so I'll try to check out your suggestions....

Update you soon.

BTW, I've noticed that the spark plugs from 1 and 4 is oily and black...and the 2 and 3 have good "white" burns....could it be that 1 and 4 have bad valves or have busted piston rings? Geezz I gotta have me a compression meter.....

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I followed your tip and apparently it was not working....

I bought a repair kit (but what was available was only for an A10 engine carb - I suppose DCG286) nevertheless the pump fits fine.

Thanks...now I got it running!!! Without the choke aid and without the stalling when I rev it up.

BUT I have a new problem...I can't seem to lower the idling to 700.....any recommendation on this?!? It runs at 1,000 rpm...then sometimes it would drop and return when I try the vaccum/air screw and the other screw (which I don't know what it is for) near the primary port (besided the accelerator pump).

PS. I don't have a dwell meter, a timing gun, (to follow your recommendations in the other post about tunning up) and my Tachometer is something I bought from a local auto supply store so I am not really sure whether the RPM that it reads is really very accurate....

Is there any "primitive" ways to do a fine job on this carb?

Quote:

no problem with this

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This I have to check...what do I have to do if it still cuts off?