Another option if you need to leave the rad support intact is the 270x300x76 core size (450mm overall lenght) coolers avaliable on ebay for $100. These fit in the spot in front of the factory radiator and need only two spots were the outlets are trimmed out. Factory radiator can still fit if staying a series, grille needs small triming too but fits nice. This all means car can go back to stock if needed and should be easy to engineer. Cooler should be big enough for a mild street setup, rated at 400hp. Cheers

Are you running the 1:1 blowthrough malpassi, there are 3 types just check its the correct one mate. Also it wont work if the fuel in/out are around the wrong way on the reg. Return line needs to be free from restrictions, i tend to use 10mm. With the carby malpassi reg you should be able to set base fuel pressure to around 5psi. Check with your gauge this rises to around 12psi (base5 + 7 boost) under full boost. Check the float level, try raising it alittle. Make sure the needle and seat are ok, not sticking. Most people drill them out to 2.5mm anyway to ensure better flow as the bowls arnt exactly huge. With the lid off carby and fuel line/pump on and working check needle and seat seals up. Also how lean was it getting what was the AFR? Hope that helps a little. Ill be going a holley 350 on my turbo a12 always another option. Cheers

Stay away from xf sized throttle bodies except for drag applications, far to large for little 1.4L engine. A 1/4 throttle will feel/act like full throttle and if you open throttle further you wont feel any gain as you will be flowing max air at 1/4 throttle. Perhaps something around 50mm would be better, like a 2litre camira throtle body or even rb30.

I use wade cams, they can regrind your old cam to whatever specs you choose. You want lobe seperation angle of 114+ degrees and duration as large as the power range you are chasing, lift as much as your valve train can handle without coil bind or piston to valve clearance. Dont be afraid to go as large as 230/230 @ 50 if your chasing good power @ 3000rpm+ and have good intake/exhaust. The bigger the cam you run the higher the compression you can get away with due to cyl bleed off. Most people recomend baby 210 degree cams for use with boost but you wont make much power with them, cant even hear there in there. Hope that helps ya bud.

Are you running the 120y borgwarner diff not the crappy little 120y jap spec one? I never broke locked bw 120ys with well over 100kw at the wheels and button clutch. I reckon the borgwarner would be as tuff if not tuffer than h165 ute diff and easy to find spares for them, try finding spare axles for a ute diff! Axle tramp is what kills them

Ive done haltec e6x to l20b, gets costly very quickly especially with tunes.
Ruffly 1-1.5k average computer cost + install if you hate wiring
Injectors, regulator, fuel pump all cheap enough even 2nd hand if you want cheaper stuff.
Manifold fabrication etc etc, id guess my conversion cost over 3k and id never do it again, that money could be better spent. Whats ya l20b like, pritty stock or worked?

still avaliable, call 0421 221 821, in trading post tomorrow

Ok didnt sell on ebay no bids not even $800. Has left me wondering what has happened to 1200 prices over the past two years, seems to have dropped, i pounced on it two years ago grabbing it at a bargain price of $700. Geez ive seen complete ####ters sell for $600, yet the best offer ive had in the last month has been $600, previously when i was not looking at selling i was offered $1000 twice.

What is going on, can people please give me an opinion on what would be a fair price now for this car????

On ebay again nearly got myself scamed. Only selling on ebay, still $800 starting price no reserve

sold sold sold