I'm interested in the gearbox conversion.

Did Jeff machine the T50 Bell Housing differently to suit the W50? I guess he could if the casting was close enough.
Did you have to send any parts to his shop?
Did you get the tail shaft done locally after you had all the other bits?

I have a W55 or similar that I picked up and hoarded years ago with the thought of fitting to the A15. Never got around to investigating further....

That's a pretty setup! Any clues on cost of manifolds etc.? I had a look at the Facebook page but nothing jumped out. I could see a lot of machining so I can't imagine it's cheap.

If you run a coil without ballast resistor and it needs one it'll overheat and fail. I had it happen on my Datsun and got stuck far from an Auto shop. If the electronic distributor self limits current then you can delete the resistor. The ballast is usually bypassed during cranking to compensate for voltage sag.

I still had the screen grab in my files. The intention is to fit a 1.5" pipe into the flange and weld it on. The section is small near the pipe so it's should weld alright.

Attach file:

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  Flange-grab.png (157.49 KB)

I have a design for oval port I did a while ago for small injectors. I could revise it to suit standard size injectors so that it suits everyone. I did look at getting it machined (mild steel for me but would work in aluminium as well) the feed back I got was it would be a lot of machine time. One prototyping place we use at work quoted me $600-, can't remember if that was each or for the pair now but either way a bit steep so I started thinking about other options.

There's probably some images of it on the forum somewhere.

Probably way too big but the 6L80 transmission in my Commodore has a huge spread of ratios. I believe the modern transmissions require calibration (tuning) for the application though.

Is the vacuum advance hose connected? If so disconnect it.

I had to mark TDC on the timing cover and pulley with a white pen just to see it with the timing light.

If you want you can make one up from generic pieces:
I bought one of these type at 25mm but can't find the seller anymore https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hose-Radia ... nC-ReokkEpnq1Q:rk:23:pf:0

This looks close:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/25-mm-x-8- ... 4AAOSw6VRbE9wy:rk:16:pf:0

It's a loop to make the signal stronger. Since the wire goes through the sensor twice it's twice as strong.

When I modified mine to run off a high impedance tach signal (i.e.a voltage signal) I made a small coil to fit around the sensor and drove it with a transistor. Part of the reason I did it was because I was getting noise/ false triggering out of the ignition I had at the time.

What ever it is you can improve thermal performance by stress relieving the print. I'm working on setting up a new FDM printer to do Nylon, slowly putting together covers for it to control the build temperature better. When I get somewhere with it I might make a post on it. I'm planning on printing parts for my Datsun with it.