The ports are 31x37 according to CAD. I started with a dxf I downloaded from a link on this side years ago. I've got a H89 head and no GX head to compare against. The Flanges locate off the studs, I tightened up the holes so in rare cases where they wont fit you'd have to drill one the stud holes. In hindsight I should've made them at 28x34 but there's plenty of meat in a H89 to port match and blend. The port area also works well with 1.5" pipe.

I have a recent painful experience with DCT gearboxes. My Ford 2.0L TDCi with a 6 speed powershift has developed an intermittent transmission fault. 3500 for a secondhand box, 5000 all up fitted (it's a big job), 13000 for a new box from Ford, 2500 for the mechatronic unit that's the likely fault. I'd be very cautious about any DCT based on this experience.

I decided I'd rather replace the car than fix it, the new family wagon is a VF SSV Sportwagon. Much more fun!

Anyone after a Ford that needs fixing?

Yes, H89, the ports are enlarged and will need some matching.

My very slow project has inched forward a bit recently with some laser cut profiles for my next manifold set up for the A15. I had designed some CNC flanges with injector bungs but the cost to get them made was a bit scary, circa 600 a pair. So, the next idea was to get the flange made in two parts, weld it together and then put the bungs in myself.

Since my intake will go over the rocker cover I also designed up some flanges so I can part the intake and get to the rocker cover for valve clearance adjustment.

A picture for reference.

Edit: Also pictured is a 3 bolt flange for the stock single outlet exhaust manifold and an inlet flange for a GT17 VNT turbo off a Mercedes sprinter van.

This is a very slow project but I'll post stuff up as I get things done.

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T5/ T56 were used in local production in Aus and are reasonably common. Not sure about Ford but Holden used the TR6060 in the last locally built Commodore. At a rated 810NM it's hard to imagine an A series ever giving that a hard time...

There's some good info here: http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=JATCO
and here: http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawi ... dex.php?title=L4N71B_Swap
The second link describes much larger source cars so I'd imagine good for an E15et boosted to the limit.

Just an opinion, it's pretty easy to reach the lock on the passenger side from the driver's seat so I can't see a big advantage unless you want key-less entry.

Tires round and balanced? The suspension tends to respond strongest to an unbalanced wheel at around 60ish on most cars.

The choice between gold and blue galvanizing depends on if you want to paint it, one's better for painting although I don't remember which off the top of my head. It's probably the other one. I could go up to the shed and pop the bonnet but it's cold, dark and rainy outside.

I did look into the 3D printed moulding sand after visiting the advanced manufacturing center at CSIRO in Clayton Victoria a few years ago. It is true that you can print one off sand cast moulds but from memory the cost was in the 1000s.

You may be better off working with a pattern maker. The now retired pattern maker at my work built a mould for a custom triple webber setup for his Cortina. Pretty cool. At least you'll get to use it more than once. An alternative might be 3D printing the mould masters. These would generally be treated with a carbide embedded epoxy since the moulding sand is abrasive. Again, getting a pattern maker involved would save a lot of time/ pain if going the route of casting.