Without pics it's a bit of a guess, was there a datto with a smog pump as some manufacturers used or an air admittance valve as others used to let some fresh air into the exhaust and burn up the rest of the fuel? Ford used a system that was just a one way valve, a number of others used small air pumps. Circa early 80s

I have some flanges another member had cut, a couple in mild steel, one in aluminium. I also got some of my own profiles cut and started making up flanges with injector bungs. The main problem is that the ports are so close together it's really tricky to get a welding torch in between them. I'd be willing to sell them to you, I don't think I'll ever use them. I'm also happy to email the dxf if that's what you want.

Another member used a redline DCOE manifold as a starter and I just thought that's a way better solution and did the same. Bought a second hand DCOE (twin weber), added some injector bungs and made up runners and plenum to bolt on. The only thing I'd do differently is make injector bungs since the ones I bought were really thin and hard to weld to a big thick casting. I ended up having to re-machine the injector bungs since a few I'd melted the sides and they drooped.

Either was there's a fair bit of work in it.

I have an old dwg file of the oval 5 piece if you want that? What are you doing? what do you need?

Forum member Sikyne built manifolds with both 1" butt weld fittings and 1.25" and (if I remember correctly) found no difference in power. A 1" steam pipe is closer in hydraulic diameter to the port size than the 1.25" and a contraction is less lossy than an expansion. You'll probably find the 1" a bit easier to package. I'm planning to use 1" and crush them square to match the ports, then port match to the head.

I've bought them from Drummond steel (north suburbs of melb) before and ordered them from Blackwoods. I've not found a source in the southern suburbs of Adelaide.

Livin' the dream! Great work. Looks like loads of fun.

If you use a needle and float in the slosh (surge) tank to limit the fuel in and it has a bit of head space (volume above cut off) it shouldn't over flow. Your high pressure pump is just a circuit, even if the injectors are off it can't return more fuel than it's drawn out. The tank will still need a breather and depending on application that may need to plump into the emissions control circuit for fuel vapor whether it's a vent like on my 1200 or a charcoal canister or something else.

The other thing I've done is use a lift pump and a liquid level switch so it only pumps when the tank needs filling. This is useful if you've run out of fuel, you can fill the surge tank before turning the motor over.

Hope this helps.

Thanks mate. I do love to tinker.

I've got a couple of H165s to choose from at a starting point. One has bluebird discs on it. Some forced induction would be nice to, my family car (VF1 SSV) has better kw/t than the Datsun so that does need to be addressed.

G'day,

There's been a little more progress on my projects over the year. Still more to do to get the gearbox in (machining the flywheel, sorting out clutch actuation, tail shaft, mounting the thing). But I have made some progress on the Manifold. After thinking for a long time I'd get flanges for injectors made I saw Ziggy's manifold build using a DCOE manifold and realised that was a better path. There's actually space around the pipes to get a TIG torch in and I picked up an unused second hand manifold for 100-200AUD (can't remember exactly now).

So I bought some mandrel bends, had some plates water cut and did some fabbing. I got some keyed plates made to fabricate the plenum which helped hold it in place before welding and used an ordinary wood router to put bells on the pipes in the plenum, cut the aluminium with ease.

Some happy snaps I took along the way.

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I've converted a supra style box to fit in my 1200 coupe behind the A series but not yet fitted it to the car. I posted some stuff about it and I don't post much so it won't be hard to find. Essentially I cut a bit off each bell housing and put a 12mm plate in between since the sizes were quite different. I used a mandrel in the main bearings to align it all and refaced the bell housing surfaces on the mill after welding. If I were doing it again I'd probably allow 1.5mm for facing after welding, it's surprising how much distortion you get.

I still have not modified the flywheel or figured out exactly what to buy for the clutch actuation. Planning on using a CSC even though I left enough of the supra bell to use the standard set up. I have to convert the whole clutch actuation to hydraulic. Not sure if I'll finish it this year.