Better clear how much it actually leaks, the leak is more like a spray when the car is running. Enough to half empty radiator with 5-7 mins of the car running.

Freak: will do that with new pump. Ill have a look at some sealant at autobarn next time I drop by it.

Tyrie: Mate, have a look at my location :). Anti-freeze isnt something Im using....

Got the water pump off with a little gentle persusian with my friend Mr Hammer and can see that the assumption of the timing chain cover filling with water is waaaaay of. I can see how the water channels through the timing chain cover now. As teretonga suggested it might be corroded, but externally it still looks fine. I think Im going to have to by a small mirror and stick it into the block with a torch to inspect the inside of the leak.

I am a lazy bastard, Im thinking about finding a sealant of sorts to stop the spray. I dont think the water pump bolts were that extremly tight so maybe a little more tension on them while tightening wont go astray.

Water pump is fine, bit corroded. Probably chase down a new one anyways..

Hi guys,
I usually use my little blue datsun 1200 ute to drive to work up until a few days ago. I got to work (around 6pm, getting dark) and it just dumped a heap of radiator fluid. I had a quick look and it seemed that the water was coming what I thought was the water pump. No biggie, although Ive never really touched this ute with a spanner yet I thought Id have a go at changing the water pump.

I started on it this morning, pulling radiotor out etc to get more room. On closer inspection it doesnt look like it was the water pump at all but the timing chain cover BEHIND the waterpump area,which has got me a bit bemused. Has my water pump dropped a seal and has pressured the timing chain area and is pushing the water out of the seal between the block and timing chain ??? Im assuming that Id better take the timing chain cover of to have a look, but I thought Id just check the procedure(of removal of the timing chain cover) with you guys as the only manual I have is a 1200 body and electrical guide.

Also, I removed the 5 bolts/nuts that hold the water pump on I noticed that there seem to be a type of grub screw between the timing case and the pump. I see no easy way to get this off, is it necessary to remove it or is it a locating lug ??

Cheers guys, looks like Im stuck driving the new car around for a few days :).

Another source of the Evo engine for those who are interested is in the Mitsu RVR, sort of a torago rip off, but with a little more go. Heres a pic of one.
PIC HERE

Little bit detuned in comparision to the evo engine.

My Evo 3 engine is supposed to put out around 200KW stockers, approx 13psi boost. I ran a 13.6 two weeks ago, so I suspect a light 1200 ute would run a little better even though it doesnt have the 4WD advantage. Bit more boost and exhaust work and the little ute would fly with an almost standard engine :).

Ask me nicely and I can go out into my shed and take some photos and dimensions of a BP Turbo crank if you want. ;). I just sold my TX3 4WD after 5 years and found engine to be fairly strong to about 15psi and after that you get bent-rod-crontitus, hence why I have most of an engine sitting in my shed and the block(plus a blow gearbox) sitting at my parents farm. Ive got pistons, rods etc ready if you want some photos taken, just bear with me as Im a pretty busy fellow(part time Uni + full time work).

The head design of the BP Turbo is a bit of a mystery as well, Mazda has 4 flow restrictors in one of the intake ports on each cyclinder. Ive heard these are meant to aid in swirling the air into the chambers, also I hear it was to prevent to much low down torque as the Mazda 4WD boxes are made from glass. Defiently stick with a NA BP head if you get the chance.

Fingers crossed my new Mitsu wont have any problems that the TX3 did ;).

Thanks guys. Much appreciated..

Perhaps that information should be added in the head change documentation ???

Just about finished with a head gasket replacment on my ute with a helping hand from an ex-mechanic mate of mine and we need to know one thing before we finish up. Whats the valve clearance set at ?? We currently have it at 10 thou but not running it till we make sure. Checked out the head guides on this website and they dont state it (or perhaps I missed the info ). Anyone ??

PS: Found this pic posted in another forum and thought Id share it. Go team Tonka!!(Girly pic included, from Jambo 2003)

CLICK HERE

Normally its 20 dollars, but since its got price money it might be more. Apparently you dial in a time and you have to get as close as possible, you will be having a few practise runs first though, which I will need as I wont have taken my car down the strip yet.

Edit: its $25 dollars. Normally its less than that but its a featured event so its a little bit more.

Just thought Id mentioned a up coming drag meet at Townsville drag strip, its supposed to be a 4,6 and rotaries meet with a stupid title relating to that movie about cars(one guess ;) ).

Its on the 27/9, but if theres no support it might be a burnout night(no appeal there for me). Should be a good night with some good cars :). I should be there in the white 3 so come over and say hi!!

Im another Townsvillian, I have/had a Blue 1200 ute on the road for a week, but had a cooling problem and I think the head is warped...long story to that. Dont know when its getting back on the road due to my full time work and part time uni. Look for me in my other two cars(transitional phase at the moment, got to sell one), red laser TX3 turbo and my new one, white Evo 3 :).