Has to be internal on motor. As I have started motor up with clutch and pressure plate removed and fan belt removed and free reving the motor still has vibration.

Yes it does. But it only vibrates at the rev range. So smooth as below say 2500 then it vibrates real bad to about 3000-3500 then stops

Good point exhaust not hitting and mounts still new. Just dropped the oil and there is shiny bits. Hmmmm.

Ok just removed the box and started the motor and the vibration is still there. This do t sound good

The sunny has a bad engine vibration that's getting worse. Don't run a tacho so don't know revs but it start at 85kph and goes away at 95kph can feel it real bad through accelerator pedel ( what ever that rev range would be). Now I know the box is on it's way out as the bearing is fukd. When it started to do it I could hold revs and push clutch in and it would go away. But now it's there with clutch in and free rev motor. Have disconnected fan belt as I thought may have been fan or water pump as fan is clutch fan but still done it. As said I don't know the rev range but at a guess maybe 2500-3300rpm. If I free rev it the vibration only is there really bad in that rev range that it comes back through the accelerator pedel and it's almost too bad to keep your foot on it at that rev range. Changing box today but thought while it's out change spiggot also. ??????

Was thinking running webber 32/36

True. So you just have a stock a12 head on your a14?

I purchased an a14 motor it came with this early model head that was done up in 09. Has double valve springs and that's about it. Valves and ports are still standard a12. Did you hone out your ports? And also did you go bigger valves?

Been searching for one myself for a while.

What would the benefit of running an a12 head with double valve springs on an a14 block?