Thanks guys, but 79mm takes the capacity over 1600 (to 1608 actually) so really, 78 or 78.5 is the biggest in this case

We are about to do a rebuild on our 78mm bore A14 (= about 1470 cc). We have an A15 crank to go into it.

Can anyone recommend 78mm or 78.5mm pistons to use with the A15 Crank/A14 block combo so we can get close to 1600cc?

We have an Autotechnica steering wheel for sale. It's in very good condition and is complete with all the gear---column adaptor, set screws, horn button and cover. Its off a Pulsar, but fits the following.

Pulsar N12, N13, N14 Exa and ET
Gazelle 86 - 90
Skyline/ Pintara R31/ U12

$80-00 ONO

Location: Melbourne

Like the man says, if you tell us where you are from, you make life easier for all, including yourself.

If you are in Melbourne, I might be able to help as I've got a home made drilling jig that is a bit rough, but it works great on all the engines that I've ever built.

Send me a PM

Stew. McK.

We're faced with the necessity of using wheels with a non standard offset and will need a spacer between the back of the rim and the front of the hub.

We are concerned with the amount of engagement between the wheel nut and the wheel stud.

The question is " Does anyone know if there is a longer stud available?"

Thanx in advance.

I have four 15 X 6.5 alloy rims and tyres for sale.
The rims are Performance 5 spoke in very good condition.
The tyres are roadworthy, or close to.
They are off an N12 Pulsar and will fit Corolla and Mitsubishi.
To fit 1200's they may need a spacer at the front.

Price $450-00 or VERY near offer.
Location--just outside Melbourne.

Reply to stewmck@nex.net.au

You're probably right to go EFI, this seems to be the way foward.
On the other hand, we have been using a VERY old Holley red pump in our race car and after it had the used car touch up its been great---reliable, no leaks and able to supply enough juice.
You might not be taking it to the right people---- the pump, in reasonable condition can supply more fuel than you need. Have a look at mounting position (nice and cool!), have a filter upstream and ensure that the inlet and supply tubing is big enough (10mm & 8mm at least). Short inlet piping fdrom the fuel tank is to be recommended

StewMcK.

The purpose of Watts linkage or Panhard Rods is to prevent lateral movement in the back axle. It is a definite requirement when coil-overs are used.

What you've got to look at is how much suspension movement you are going to have. If it is small, say 25mm down and 50mm up, then Panhard rod is the way to go. For suspension travels more than that, and especially on heavier vehicles, Watts Linkage is superior.

Like most other things, the compromise is what you have to look at.

To summarise, I reckon that the score is as follows:-
Panhard Rod. Advantages--- Light, minimum unsprung weight addition, simple to make and fit, simple to adjust rear roll centre by altering pick up points. Easy to fit.
Disadvantages---Corners better one way than the other, especially when suspension travel is bigger.
Watts Linkage. Advantages---Back axle moves vertically up and down rather than an arc with radius equal to the length or the Panhard rod, so mudguard(=fender for Dave Gonzales) and body tyre clearance is minimised. Very strong.
Disadvantage--Higher increase in unsprung weight. More complicated. Harder to fit.


Conclusion:---If its a light car like a small Datto, Panhard rod is the way to go.

StewMcK

I want to buy two, alternatively four 7.5" or 8" X 13 hotwires to suit a four stud Datto.

All offers considered.

The problem with responding to a complete and utter cretin like this is that he gets his jollies by upsetting others.

Please, everyone, just ignore this intellectual cripple and he'll go away and race with SBR (and if you believe that there are fairies at the end of the garden)