Guys I'm sure this question has been asked before in some format but can't it in the posts (no time to look at all).
I have 2 oval port heads but don't know which is what and which to use.
1 is double valve springs with a small recess in the combustion chamber all the way around. eg a small lip which effectively would give extra cc in chamber.
2 is single spring no recess eg opposite of valve is flat and flush with head.
No 2 is in better nick with no corrosion around water jackets and no skimming so that head face is proud of the castings around the front. No 1 appears to have been skimmed so much
that the casting bump where you can fit a temp sended is also skimmed away a little. Don't know whether this head wioll have too much compression for what i want. What is the step
in head 1 for. Both appear to hav same size and shape ports and valves

Jaime lowering the car only 2 inches should not have a great effect on the sway bar or its mounts. It is the relationship of one to the other that creates the desired effect. The mount to the
chassis or subframe etc is only to locate it of sorts and provide a link from left to right. Unless the angle moved up significantly (doubtful with 2 inches) it will still work fine.
Adjustable swaybars have a relocation of the link point available from front to back because moving the link forward shortens the bar and provide greater torsion but up and down adjustment is
rarely used. Think how they would get on with lowered cars that clamp the bar directly to the lower wishbone. I would be surprised if the length of the links had any bearing on your bar
sliding one way of the other. Maybe the bushes are loose or something or one link is longer than the other. some cars have a stopper on each side of the subframe locating bush to stop
movement (MG Midget) but most cars don't the bars seems to stay in alignment fine because I guess each side acts in unison not independently. Maybe something is out of alignment.

Shock lenght will not have an effect on your conering or handling either unless the longer ones were bottoming out. It is the compression and rebound valving that will effect handling in
relation to your spring rates. The shocks are only there to control the motion of the spring. If you put heavy shocks in they may appear to help say body roll but if they are too heavy for
the springs and start to try and work against them it will affect the handling somewhere else.
You normally put shorter heavier shocks in to counter the reduced travel of your shorter springs which are usually heavier to stop the car dipping so much through bumps. If you were to use
fairly short springs for example that were as soft as original the car would possibly have problem with bottoming over harsher bumps.
i don't know exactly about leaf springs but if you just reset them to be lower than original but no firmer I doubt the handling would be much different at all. Sure the centre of gravity
would be lower which should benefit but to do it properly the springs should be retensioner to be firmer.
Harder shocks to enhance cornering is not right either it would be better to have softer shocks and a rear swaybar but again shocks and springs should be matched in their characteristics.

Peter please keep us informed. I was wanting to do the same thing about 6 months ago. As far as I could see the belt drive pulley arrangment was going to be fairly straight forward
to set up but the head did not phsyically line up. Both the oil and water galleries did not line up.

No I believe Nissan borrowed it off Holden who got it off Opel. I think that's how Holden got the Astra of that vintage as it is a rebadged Pulsar
Vector sedan etc.

All Datsun/Nissans, Toyota's except front wheel drive Corollas, Mitsubishi's some Mazda's like late model 929's and rwd 323's, Ford Lasers which should include fwd 323's, Hyundai's.
You are after the 4 stud with a PCD (pitch circle diameter eg the space between 2 diagonally opposite studs) of 114.3mm or 4.5 inch in the lod scale. You don't want Honda's,
Gemini's, Ford Escort/Cortina's or early Mazda's.

As far as I know you shouldn't have to grind the ports. If you use an oval port head they line up fine in fact what I have seen done is that the shrouding around the injector
in the manifold face has been opened up to match the shape of the port. What head are you using.

Errrnstak, a friend of mine has the injection on an A14 with big valve oval port head and fairly large cam. It is running with a Motek fuel only computer. He cut off the front of his
manifold and adapted a plate for a Holden Camira throttle body which is still twin butterflies but bigger. It works well but the oval inlet makes plumbing for the air filter messy in my
book. He gave me a spare set up and I was going to adapt a single throttle body of a 3 litre Nissan as it is much tidier and matches the shape of the plenum well. Unfortunately I never
finished it as I am now taking a different direction with my project. I was going to put this on a A15 which I had but I am not going to use an A series motor now.

Linc I presume you are talking about cam gear and therefore no. I am still working on the idea of using the E15 bits and although it looks more complicated than I first thought I have
still not dismissed it. This is of course a belt drive system. They can sound good also.
What I do have and am working on is setting up a gilmer drive for the auxillary pulleys.
I am going to graft the outer of a Fiat cam pulley into the inner of the A crank pulley. Use a E15 crank pulley, the little one on the crank for the alternator and then maybe buy a water
pump pulley or graft one on from say the E15 idler which is in the A15 cam position. On the E15 it drives the fuel pump and acts like an idler.
Then it will just be a matter of finding the right length belt.
Unfortunately this is not a priority at present.
If you are keen the Mini's now have a gear drive which may be adapted but that would be expensive.
What about from the Holden range.Someone once told me that some people were using Holden drives on the A series but didn't have all the details. It is obviously a made up thing has anyone
ever heard of this.

Yeah that happened to me last night and it kept happening until I shut and reopened my net connection. Never happened before though I always get the latest messages on
screen on start up.
Not that I consciously did anything to get it.

If you actually mean the air pump that puts fresh air into the exhaust port then no we don't have that but I expect the overall casting would be the same.
I also have a MG Midget that I got out of California that had the air pump but all we do with them is block the holes and it is a desirible head as the casting is
thicker for more porting.
Do you think the Aussie non smog head is OK.