No, it was solid mounted. Looks like there's room inside it for something to slide back and forth. I got some calipers from a friend and swapped them at lunch today. I must have buggered something on the rebuild because they work great. Now I just need to work out the e-brake.
So I shouldn't remove that, I'm assuming? I may bypass it tonight anyway, just to see. There's not enough wheel travel on my truck for that thing to work in the first place.
@ ddgonz - So is the disc-front brake valve pretty much the same thing as the residual pressure check valve, and needs to be removed?
@ dodgeman - The new master cylinder is from an S14 Silvia, same car I got the front and rear calipers and rotors from. On a side note, it bolted right up to the late Sunny booster and has the same plunger depth.
Yeah I originally thought it was some kind of load proportioning valve, but it's not attached to the suspension any where. I never gave it much thought until now.
I thought I just finished with a rear disc conversion on my Sunny truck (minus the emergency brake cables) but the rear discs are dragging after bleeding the brakes. All calipers, rotors, and master cylinder came from a non-turbo S14 Silvia. There is some sort of valve in the rear line before it reaches the rear diff and splits off. It's near the back wall of the cab, inboard of the frame rail under the bed. This truck came with front discs from the factory (1991). Is that residual valve that makes the drums work correctly because I thought that was incorporated in the master cylinder.
Never had good luck with yellow top optimas. That's rediculous that they won't stand up to their sales-pitch "warranty" though.
On the other hand, I've had the same red top in my truck for almost 6 years (2 more months). Ran it flat at least 6 times and didn't drive the thing for almost two years at one point. I'll be replacing it with another red top when it finally dies.