Hi Sikyne slightly off topic but i am very interested in how you make a rb20 gearbox fit an a series. Do you have any pics or a thread on how you did this? is it simply cutting the bellhousing and welding a A series one on?

also does it use a custom clutch to suit a rb20 input shaft?

thanks!

Hi i did a compression test on my a12 today because is uses alot of oil but drives fine other wise

i did a dry and wet comp test and got these results

cyl 1 183psi wet 250 psi

cyl 2 162 psi wet 250 psi

cyl 3 173 psi wet 218 psi

cyl 4 174 psi wet 226 psi

so to me the dry test dosnt look so bad but the wet test there's around a 67psi difference which is quite large

is there any reason as to why the dry looks reasonable but wet test shows excessively worn rings? i was suspecting lower dry test than these reults

it uses alot of oil at high speeds on the freeway 120-130km/h i can go from full oil on the dipstick to around half in 100km

but it does have 600,000km on it original and was over heated badly by previous owner which is why cyl 2 is low on comp as the piston did scuff the bore leaving behind a bit off alloy on the bore.

Thanks!

I just read that you have used a ebay/chinese carby

this is the same thing i am running and actualy runs very good on my a12 i took my power valve out and gave it a slight polish as mine was stuck in one position.

also the top gasket in mine was kinda cheap and fell apart as i took the top cover of so i replaced it with a spare i had.

i also changed all the jets using the genuine hitachi jets from my old carby as i felt that maybe the chinese jet sizes could be slightly off but they looked okay from just looking at them

check your accelerator pump aswel to see if it squirts fuel into the carby when you hit the accelerator it should be a steady stream

and also look down the carby whilst keeping constant rpm (not pumping accelerator) to see if the accelerator pump is actually dribbling down the carby.

You mention the usual flat spot on carbys it could be a sticking power valve in the top air horn of the carby it should move very freely out it can cause a overly rich or lean mixture depending if stuck open or closed. the power valve is lightly staked into the top body and can be removed and polished with fine sand paper and wd40 (this has worked for me before)

The power valve will also play up if the top air horn is warped excessively which happens when the screws are over tightened you can check this with a flat edge.

These are just a few things i have encountered before and may be worth checking over just to be try eliminate a few things.

Thanks!

sounds like the carby is running very lean could be blocked jets, anti dieseling valve not working or you have got an air leak somewhere (normaly that burble on decel gets louder the leaner it gets).

was the dizzy put on right e.g not a tooth off?

hi i am considering doing a draw through turbo setup using a wrx td04l and was wandering if everyone who has a draw through setup has used carbon seals.

if not did the turbo burn oil at high vacuum?

thanks!

hi im looking for a h89 head if anyone has one

thanks

Anyone??? Need it asap

Thanks

Hi im looking for a manual pedal box if any one has one please let me know

I need one by this week

Thanks

Hi i was wandering if anyone knew the throttle plate size on these carburetors? does the 1.75 mean the throttle blade is 45mm?

i am looking for a carb to suit suck through turbo setup and have heard few people use this carburetor.

i can get a bing cv carburetor but has a 40mm throttle plate is this too small for a turbo a12? would the cd175 better suited?

Thanks!