Is this real Old News to you guys ?

Worlds fastest street legal ELECTRIC CAR 1972 Datsun 1200
Whtie Zombie
500hp
1200 ft/lb torque
0-60 in a jaw-dropping 1.8 seconds.

For Videos, Google Datsun 1200 Whtie Zombie

Faster 0-60 than the $1.5mil Bugatti Veyron
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LO0PgyPWE3oClick here

Does it run good all the time ?
If not, the B310 version of the "Charcoal Canister Purge Valve" may be bad, or some part of this system.

Debris in the float bowl can cause this, or as said before, float heavy from gas in-leakage.
Dunno if the 310 has a brass float like the 1200, most likely if so.
http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/?title=Float+repair

Remove the Charcoal thingy, if it's heavy, then further study on the service manual needs doing to see proper repair.

The early ones had a foam filter on the bottom of the ones I saw, dunno about your particular vehicle though.

I suggest checking the visible fuel filter for a dark line at the bottom that moves, that's water. Or some version of garbage that's not gasoline anyway.

Post updates to let us know what you found.

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Are these "store-bought" EFI units or scrap yard and lap-top home-made injection systems..

Regarding the "intention" of my Edmunds post, was I too own a Yukon 4X4 and wish for simpler yet sturdy Micro-Cars with RWD !

BTW I have;
ONE Datsun 1200
One BRE Datsun 510
and one "project" 1974 260Z in the climate controlled basement.

Hard Cork was the only ones I ever saw in the 70's working at the Dealer.

I've never seen the one you're speaking of.

Regarding the factory ones,
We'd use 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive [Yellow] to glue the gasket to the valve cover. Let it sit up overnight with a weight on it, with the gasket side on concrete or some heavy metal surface.

Grease the other side, and NO Leaks between valve adj.
Same deal on oil pan gaskets.

I learned to HATE rubber gaskets after scraping off 400 tons of RTV and cheap rubber gaskets put on by dudley do-wrong

Out-of-round tires or rims.
I suspect some side to side wobble as well as O-R diameter.
0.125" max wheel O.R. was a number I recall, don't bet on that one though, I'm not sure. Can't recall the side to side figure at all.

Had the same exact issue with my 75 V-8 4-sp Monza, I HAD to go over the US Wide 55mph to run smooth..

A Bud had a tire "Trueing" machine, trued up the tires, No Vibration anywhere.

Drive-shaft, {Ute}? ARE WE still Talking 1200's Here ?
If so, U-Joint 'phasing' isn't as big a deal as the independent rear suspension cars unless jacked up. Still I feel the tires/wheels are the issue.
Why, cause it goes away at more speed, the "Out of Balance" drive-shafts got worse with speed.

Still make sure they're "opposed" U-know, one flops up and the other to the side?

On the 510 and the like, the rear Half-Shafts must be opposed or the car will jump up and down at walking speeds.

On my 71 BRE 510, the "Lifetime" warranty Koni Shocks failed a few years back.

Koni of America said those were from Holland or some crap like that.

Anyway, I found some stock 510 Struts and dropped in the 400cc [or whatever] amount of 80/90 Gear Dope.

Oddly enough, there was minimal difference, at slow speeds it was certainly rougher, but about 35+mpg it got normal, back to the factory .89g skidpad{or so it felt anyway}

A pal at a Kawasaki Dealer, says the Moto-X racers swap oil viscosity at minuscule viscosity increments to gain advantage.

Anyone else swap out from stock SAE 5w Hydraulic Oil ?
Or am I still in the 70's, and you all use unobtanium Oil today ?

Are those std B-210 Slugs ?

What years are they found in ?

I'm 4 Time Zones away instead of 12

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A couple of tricks I've used on high tensile bolts.
#1 Oxy/Acet torch with 000 or smaller tip, run it slightly-lean and de-temper the center of the bolt.
Work quickly, only turning the bolt red, spray with penetrant AFTER the fire hazard has cooled.

#2 Plunge-Cut with a 1/4" Air Die Grinder, use a Ball Burr, double cut makes safer shavings, singe cut burrs make HAZARDS!

This works well removing Titanium Pop-Rivets also.
{Electric Die Grinders mis-used in this way are more hazardous than Air driven}

#3 1/4" Die-Grinder with 1/4" "mill-length" drill bit, these are very short, may find them in Cobalt only or Titanium Coated.
Stay away from standard HSS High Speed Steel Bits.
@ 20-30,000 rpm make sure to shield up your arms, chest, all exposed body parts in case of bit breakage.

LH Drill usage, go "slower" than standard speeds, vary up and down, this sometimes will grab the broken fastener.

Does the "Shoulder" of the bolt go fully through the flywheel?

Check the "Fit" between the flywheel and the shoulder OD of the fastener.
Has the gap gotten wider ?

Going back with the larger bolts seems like a good idea if there's enough meat there.

ARP bolts are good for sure, some mfg's of fasteners {Chinese} do not have the consistency of ARP

60 minutes or some other so-called News had a piece on fasteners a few years ago and the Chinese Bolts featured at that time, were inconsistent compared to American Mfg'd bolts. Though to be fair, I do think the Chinese have gotten better at quality control..

I HAVE distributed a few 100,000 bolts in my time at Southern Company and the Grade 5 minimum standard we have implemented on plated std fasteners has eliminated most bolt problems.

Rusty Wrench

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This is a topic of massive interest to me.

Does anyone have ap program to operate modern EFI from a laptop?
The US pricing makes the MPFI froH Edelbrock or Holley look more attractive.

I've been repairing and building computers since Win98
I feel certain that a Open source Os would be easier to tweak.

Is ANYONE using junk-yard TBI, MPFI, TPI or any type of injection system that originally did NOT come on their car ?

I see sites wanting to sell parts for Rich people to play with, not my concern.

Does anyone know where or how to convert a factory EFI & Electronics to older stuff ?

When attempting to do this with a GM TBI for instance, there's several issues;
TBI manifold Heating
EGR plumbing, if you use one
Transmission control issued through the ECM/PCM on the L460E & L480E
Speedo Adaptors to mechanical units
TV cables on pre 95 units with the R7004
Crankshaft position sensors on later models
Distributors that ccorrectly control timing
VSS mis-reading due to tire/gear diff, [some have jumpers for correction]

Simple stuff like O2 sensor, TPS, MAP, ATS, ETC are easy enough.

My original desecration of the English Language->>
If I were an Auto Mfg, my New Years Resolution would be

HEY, by the way, just WHEN are you guys learn how to speak Proper English

Gee, I guess I wasted an hour or more attempting to "narrow" the Loctite product range for specific uses.