I found a source in Japan, Greenline Motorsports.
They sell lightweight Kameari 7mm stem size 40mm intakes and 33mm exhaust.
Has anybody used them before?
https://greenline.jp/catalogue/item.ph ... t&carcode=B310&fromlink=2

Wow, not sure how they're going to fit the 42 and 35 mm valves as there's not enough room between the valve stem centre lines without hitting each other. The sotck distance between the stems center to center is 37.5 mm.
Going with 42 and 35 mm valves is 1.00 mm bigger at 38.5 mm. Your machinist will have to offset one valve guide to make them fit.
Besides, what kind of displacement in the engine do you have with such large valves? Your bottom end response if going to suffer. If you have a high lift and long duration cam, the large valves will give you a lot of top end power but at the sacrifice of midrange and bottom end.
It will be interested to hear back from you as to how that head performs.
Good luck with it as it's going to be an expensive build.

I'm trying to find a source for 40 mm intake valves for the H89 head with a stem of 8 mm with spending an arm and a leg on them or buying custom valves at $40 per valve.
The early L16 on the 510 used 38 mm intakes and 33 mm exhaust that can be cut down to the 103.8 mm A14 valve length and regrooved.
The later L16 engines increased to 42 mm intakes which is too large for the H89.
Has anybody found a good source for 40 mm intake valves.
I have the 33 mm exhaust from the early L16.
I was planning on undercutting the 8 mm stems down to about 7.5 mm since valves are mostly are 2 part valves.
I don't want to risk cutting them down to 7 mm especially when revving to 8800 RPM.
To keep costs down I really don't want to go with 7 mm stems which would need need guides and more machining costs.

Thanks for providing this extra information on these A15 crankshafts.
In summary, both cranks are basically the same when it comes to the actual bearing journal specs with the exception that the H97 probably does not include the clutch pilot bushing otherwise they are completely interchangeable in either the A14 or A15 block.

Does anybody know what the difference is between the A15 12200-G3400MT crankshaft and the 12200-H9700 AT crankshaft?
I believe MT stands for the manual tranny and AT stands for the automatic tranny.
Is there a difference in the bolt spacing for the flywheel or the flex plate or is there a difference in the size and the weight of the counterweights?

The glass shop never tried that method.
It's a little late now as I managed to get it on with a lot of effort.
The top was simple enough as it comes it two parts and both halves slide in quite easily using silicon spray.
The sides require some effort for the bottom half as I was able to slide the top halves into the top corner pieces.
The bottom was impossible without cutting in half and then sliding both halves.
This is the order that used,
1) slide the upper top half starting with the left side starting from the outside corner,
2) slide the upper top right half starting from the outside corner, (include the little gap cover with it),
3) slide the upper half on the left side trim (driver's side in North America) and work the seal lip using a typical hard plastic trim tool.
4) cut the bottom trim in half, (too much of an arc trying to slide the entire trim length)
5) slide the left bottom half starting from the middle going towards the left bottom corner,
6) slide the right bottom half starting from the outside corner towards the middle,
7) use the trim tool to work the rubber lip for the outside 1 to 2 inch length,
8) slide the right hand side trim up to the to right hand corner (start at about the middle),
9) work the rubber lip into the trim lip using the trim tool for the remaining length.
10) fold the little tabs on each corner to lock them into place.

It's doable after the screen is installed, but it takes a lot of effort.

I had my windshield replaced on my 1971 Coupe and the glass installers were not able to reinstall the chrome trim. In fact, they were damaging it as they tried various methods and tools.
I told them to stop before doing any more damage to the trim.
Does anybody have any tips and tricks on how this is done without damaging the trim?
I did not find anything on the tech wiki for the trim re-installation.
Any suggestions are more than appreciated.

Does anyone know as to which electronic speedometer sender from other Nissan transmissions would work for the 63A?
I want to convert to an electronic speedometer gauge and was wondering if somebody else has tried this before.

I found a nice little trick in getting that stubborn plate off. If you use a 50/50 mixture of Dexron ATF and acetone and apply it around the entire perimeter of the plate and inside each bolt hole for a few minutes, it will easily come off with just a light tap.
The acetone really helps to break the old sealant. I tried different break-free products and nothing worked except for this 50/50 mixture. Don't risk breaking that plate by forcing it. Use the mixture and let it work. If it doesn't come off within a few minutes, reapply the mixture in liberal amounts. It really works.

Thank you so much for the information.
BTW, I found the shop manual for a 1979 200SX (S10) that has a complete section on the rebuilding of the 63A tranny.
The file is way to big to attach.
Maybe I can email it to you instead and then you can post it.
Let me know how you want to go with it as I'm sure others would appreciate having that for their reference.