Sorry to hear the news Glen. I was hoping you were going to turn up too the car meet Last night at DFO. Awesome turnout too. So what's the plan for the Cylinder head?

Thanks AFRacer. I've already done that so it can't be the issue then. I needed to cut both for it to run for a 4 cylinder.

Alright, sorry for the late reply fellas. Cadet1200 I removed the ballast whilst wiring up the MSD as its job is too supply the coil with the correct voltage and not the ballasts. As for your recommendation DD I had the original 12V ON wire and the original 12V START wire going into a Y shaped adapter and then too the red wire of the 6AL. It still didn't work with this method. I also know the Blaster 2 is compatible with the 6AL so its not a problem. I'm still running the original points dist so that could be the problem. Otherwise I'll wire it up too the HOT wire from the key barrel and put it on a switch so it doesn't drain the battery.

It's delivering spark to the plugs so I know it's working, but it's odd that whilst I crank the voltage drops and it can't ignite. I've tried supplying it with 12V from the "START" position of the key barrel and it wont ignite then and I've tried 12V from the "ACC" wire of the key barrel as well. Should I wire it up too the "HOT" wire from the fusible link so I know it getting 12V at all times or is there a better solution to this?

Hey everyone. I've recently bought a second hand working MSD 6AL ignition for my 1200 and a brand new Blaster 2 Coil for it too. I've gotten around to wiring it all up today and my problem is that whilst I'm cranking the engine it wont ignite and the voltage from the 12V "ON" position of the key barrel that the MSD is hooked up too drops down to around 4.0-0.0V. The MSD requires 5V minimum to operate. After releasing the key sometimes the engine will catch and ignite whilst the throttle is on and then run for about 3 seconds and die. I've been messing around with this all afternoon and it's driving me nuts.

This might seem like a dumb idea but as far as isolation goes wouldn't a rubber "Gasket/Mould" be a good idea to sandwich in between the camber top and strut tower to soften vibration? I understand the effects of this may be negligible compared to the stock strut tops but in theory wouldn't something like this work?

Instagram will more than likely be the place I'll be uploading too from now on. I'll update here from time to time to keep the folks who don't have IG up to date. For anyone who has Instagram on here and would like to keep up to date with the build My user name is SquareNacho.

Hmm, Its been a while since I've posted anything on here about the ute. Long story short I had a mobile panel beater come around to help me out. Gave Him $600 bucks for what I wanted done (floors windows, sills, front quarter, rear wall of cabin ect, ect). His first job was the biggest, Floors. Told him I wanted them cut out and new sheets welded in. "No Problem" he said. Had to pop out for an hour or so and asked him to keep working. Came back home to see this.

[img]http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/SquareNacho/media/IMAG0493_zpstbw4gjxl.jpg.html?o=2[/img]

[img]http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/SquareNacho/media/IMAG0494_zpsga3f42t4.jpg.html?o=1[/img

[img]http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/SquareNacho/media/IMAG0495_zpsjn8bsz7x.jpg.html?o=0[/img]

Needless to say I was quite annoyed.. Told him I wanted my money back, he buggered off and I haven't seen him since. Unfortunately people like this exist. I lost a lot of steam and didn't want to touch the car, let alone look at it. Just want to say I'm back, I've got my bearings straight and I'm kicking this into gear.

Never mind I got it sorted

How would I go about removing this.