I'd suggest having some jets. Webber is good at supplying them promptly. I use a wideband oxygen meter for jetting changes and I don't see how I got along without one. Costs about $160 and provides much entertainment.
Your well-informed comments indicate that I'm probably not saying anything you don't already know.

It is easier to simply replace all blown fuses than to figure out which is which. Be sure to replace them with ones ofthe same rating.

Ignition coils can get damaged. My coil was hit while pulling the engine and the car refused to run properly after that. I found the problem only by accident as the coil looked ok but was not.

You mentioned shorting out the battery lead immediately before the problem began. It made big impressive sparks and made you feel guilty but I'd not expect that to do much but burn up the nut and bolt you contacted. If the starter cranks the engine, the connection to the battery is good enough to run the engine. You should have indicator lights coming on when the ignition switch is on before the engine starts. The place you shorted has a smaller wire up to the ignition switch. If that wire is destroyed, everything comes to a stop. If it is damaged but still works a little, then running problems can happen. If the headlights still work well, it is probably ok as it feeds them also. Expect the lights to dim when the starter motor is cranking, that is normal.

my primary main jet is 97 my secondary main jet is 145.
The emulsion tubes should come out easily. My carb sat for 15 years, it does not seem as good as it used to be but it works.
You gave an excellent description of it in your post, sounds too lean. It is more common for jets to clog than the much larger passages, but nothing is impossible. I have had to remove lead plugs and drill out clogged passages on Webbers
Not hard to do. Fishing line shot weights can be used to plug the access holes again.

Really good video. A must-see before changing u joints.

Shift lever location is the least of our concerns. I even relocated a datsun shifter outside of my car on a ball joint. A square tube links the two shift levers and it works quite well.

Driven load on the belt has a flywheel effect for the engine.
As such a cog belt system would act like a solid "flywheel" and the v belt drive system would be like a viscous damped harmonic dampener.

Wider belts should make more whine, closer teeth would give a higher pitch whine.

I had a tape of turbojet whine playing on the sound system of my motorcycle, it fooled a pilot. You could do something like that. Place a weather resistant horn speaker near the engine, cut off output to the other speakers and make the engine sound like anything you want.

Thought I'd better ask: Can anyone suggest a suitable presure plate which will hold more torque than the original 1200 one?

Two of you have quite properly brought up valve springs. They were supplied by Crane along with the camshaft.

However, I am already finding some unexpected negatives to running an engine that hard, it destroyed a new oil pressure sender.

I think I'd best stay at more modest power outputs as its clutch seems "whimpy" and will hold ok if I'm gentle with the engine but slips on shifting at high output.

thanks, it all makes sense now.

Years ago I added a hotter cam to my 1200 but was not impressed as the cam came with a card saying the valves would float at 6200 so I stayed below that and saw more loss than gain. Two days ago, having read here that the 1200 would spin to 8000 so I tried it. I was too busy to look at its tach but it was a different experience. At that speed, that engine was making less power so when I shifted into 2nd, it snapped forward surprisingly.
Pushed to that rpm, it seemed a different engine. Its 2000 rpm idle was now understandable.