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Re: Ignition timing: how do I rotate the distributor?
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Thank you all! I will go excavate the grime on the bottom of the distributor and learn how to do this.

Posted on: 11/17 4:22
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Ignition timing: how do I rotate the distributor?
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I feel like a dork asking this, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to do fine adjustments on the Hitachi distributor. I have one of the four-sharp-teeth matchbox style distributors (and another electronic one that's quite different) and my current one is honestly adjusted pretty well. I was expecting there to be some sort of pinch bolt on the dizzy shaft so I could loosen that and rotate the body, but I can't find it. It's possible that it's buried in too much oil crud to see.
I've gone through the ignition timing part of the wiki and it has lots of detail, but, not "loosen this bolt on the bottom" that I could find.
Thanks for any advice

Posted on: 11/16 4:25
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Re: Nissan-Datsun Commercial Vehicles
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I would LOVE one of those E20 vans.

Posted on: 10/12 6:08
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Re: Trying to establish timing
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Come to think of it, I may indeed need to do this repeatedly. The pulley I have now is a three sheave and I'm only using one, to the water pump and alternator. Next project is putting on a Ford EDIS trigger wheel using a machined mounting that clamps into one of the unused pulleys and the trigger wheel presses onto, with a key so it won't move.
After THAT'S working, cast a whole new pulley that has, on its nose, a gilmer drive for a supercharger. Some day...

Posted on: 8/21 5:32
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Re: Trying to establish timing
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When I first got my CNC mill working I had to pull the pulley for some reason (I don't remember what) so looked at it, measured one hole size, and the distance between two holes, and cut this lovely tool that fit in the pulley with fingers about 0.1mm smaller than the holes, so I could put it in with a 2m long breaker bar on it, then a second breaker bar on the (31mm?) nut, and pop the nut loose.
Except I didn't actually COUNT the number of holes. I figured it would be six holes. There are seven, in a 1200's pulley.
So I made the tool and... nope. I had to remake it for 7 holes.
But then it worked great.

Now I have an A14 with a pulley I got somewhere else (hence the missing index mark) and it has no holes in it to index on. If I had to do this a lot I'd make a clamp-on tool that fits in the v belt flange and clamps tightly enough to let me shift the crank main nut.

Posted on: 8/21 5:29
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Re: Trying to establish timing
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I've always been scared of popping a tooth off the starter ring gear, after having a jeep with a missing ring gear tooth once. That was a big pain in the butt.

Posted on: 8/18 4:54
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Re: Trying to establish timing
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These are all very useful. I'll try to get the pulley nut off (which is its own challenge) and check the woodruff key alignment as that seems the easiest, but may go with the piston stop if I can't get the pulley loose.
Thank you!

Posted on: 7/31 20:17
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Trying to establish timing
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I need to check timing on my A14 because it's running rich.
The problem I have is: it's a Frankenstein engine with lots of parts on it. It has a three sheave pulley on the crank and I cannot for the life of me see a single mark on it. I think the timing chain cover is from a 1200, because it looks the the ones on the tech wiki.

So if you have a car where you don't know exactly where TDC is, how do you determine it, to mark the pulley?
I'm thinking about pulling a spark plug and sticking a wire in there and measuring the height but that's only going to get me to within like 5 degrees because movement of the piston is so small at TDC.
Maybe stick the wire in and try to measure it at roughly halfway up, observe the angle there, move it until it's the same depth on the other side, observe the angle there, and split the angles?

Posted on: 7/30 1:30
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Carburetor work is tough
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This is a what I'm Working On Now post.
I welded the O2 bung in and wired up the wideband AFR gauge, and it says the car is running dead rich/offscale for the first couple of minutes until it warms up and the choke opens, at which point it flips right up to dead lean/offscale.

The car runs and idles okay. I'm working on looking for vacuum leaks, which are pretty likely. (It's an A14 not in a Datsun, so it doesn't have an air intake, just a big filter, and stuff like the hardware to pull the intake air across the exhaust until the engine warms up is plugged, but is it plugged well enough?)

When I did the transplant I built a sort of analog computer to simulate some of the inputs to carb sensors that don't exist in this car.

But this is definitely convincing me I need to just chuck the Hitachi and head for fuel injection.

Posted on: 1/31 0:52
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Re: A14 exhaust: where would you put an oxygen sensor? Also wow the back nut is a bear
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Yeah, I'm looking at just below the joint. (But low enough I can get the clamping collar for the joint down past the screws, obviously.)

I'll look for a copper seal/gasket: I hadn't yet found one available.

Zigmondo: there is room above the gasket but I have a cast iron header. (Haven't yet made my own.) That'd be a perfect place to put it but I can't weld cast iron. I've brazed steel to cast iron before but this definitely needs to be airtight, and I'm not confident of my ability to manage that.

Thanks!

Posted on: 1/17 18:13
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