I'm fairly certain no KB10 coupes sold in Australia had that console. Wonder if it was an aftermarket or custom made one. And if original how the heater control levers were incorporated. The 1000 had a very simple heater with direct actuation push-pull buttons and flap levers connected to the flaps. A near perfect model of the "kiss" principle.

That "extender" was quite common in the Ford Escort twin cam and still available. Called a servo tower.
https://www.google.com/search?q=ford+e ... 1366&rlz=1CAEAQE_enAU1053

Interesting story. Enjoyed that.

Two bolts and a number of wraps of tie wire, if you're in a hurry.

Try EGO couriers. They can collect or drop off at homes or depots too for cost savings. https://www.e-go.com.au/home.do

Do you remember what gap you set the rings at?

But there was this version of the Vega motor...

https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/25222/lot/122/

Not a H1,nice bike, but you'll get the idea:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yt6m35akQrA

When it was first developed in the early 70's there was a method for selecting carb jets etc. The driving wheels would be removed, the car secured on stands, the accelerator floored and the brakes applied to pull the revs down to 2k, 3k 4k etc for a colour reading. Usually it was necessary to let the brakes cool between readings.

There is no fast way. If you don't want to remove the head, tilt motor so plug is highest point and vertical. Set at TDC so valves are closed. Remove plug, measure and fill chamber to bottom of spark thread with oil. Knowing what that is you'll be able to get a pretty accurate figure for the compression ratio. Don't worry about a few drops up or below the threads. It's too small an amount to affect the CR. (CR=swept volume+combustion chamber divided by combustion chamber.)