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   All Posts (jaimecidpedro)


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Re: suspension/ brakes for 120y
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Pictures are always nice to see. Your 120Y can turn into a great road car, sway bars and suspension and it rocks!

Posted on: 2007/2/25 8:06
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Re: Spring rates... what do you use?
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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In my 180B with an L20B motor ( 2 door ) I got Ground Control coil overs in the front with Eibach springs 175lbs.
Be mindfull about the fact that your 1200 has a lighter A12 engine. A full race suspension might not be the best suspension for the street. Full race I mean real stiff springs. Sway bars will take care of your cornering.
But no worries, you can always downgrade or upgrade, it is your own personal taste and confort that counts.

Posted on: 2007/2/24 21:15
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Re: SoCal Datsun Swapmeet 4 Mar
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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I did not know about it. Where is this event happening?

Posted on: 2007/2/24 3:39
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Re: Coilover Q's
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You need the weight of the engine, combined with the weight of the car. Check out the weight the car sold with that engine has. Check out the weight of the engine itself. Compare it to the weight of your original Sylvia engine and your Sylvia car.

Check what is the recommended spring rate for the car that came with the engine you have in your car now. That should give you all the tools to make an educated guess.

Posted on: 2007/2/24 3:36
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Re: 17" inch Wil they fit??l
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You will have no problems, it can be done. I have seen a couple of Mazda R100 with 20 in wheels.....you can fit anything you really want to fit.

Posted on: 2007/2/24 3:29
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Re: Coilover Q's
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Konis are great. Check out classic garage.

I got Ground control coil overs for my 610. I will use Koni struts/shocks.
My car got painted and soon I will get it all together.ClassicGarage

And for coil overs, just in case...Coil Over Suspension

Posted on: 2007/2/24 3:08
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Re: suspension/ brakes for 120y
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Good to know you are going to upgrade your 120Y with an A15.
Suspension wise, for the rear, it is better to decamber your leaf springs. Blocks are fine, but decambering the springs is a safer and free from worries system.
Once decambered, you use your same existing U bolts and related items. No worries about the blocks loosening up.
You have to get your springs off the car and take them to a shop. It is not an expensive procedure. That will drop your rear about 2 in. You can reverse the eyes of the springs as well, that will lower the car even further. I recommend you decamber the springs. later on, if needed, you can reverse the eyes too.
Shorter rear shocks will follow.
In the front you can take your strut assemblies off the car and you can turn your assemblies into adjustable coil overs.Check the suspension section in here, at 1200 Datsun, the coil over section applies also to the 120Y. Taking the struts off the assemblies, you can cut and weld a piece of threaded metal,and the corresponding threaded spring seat goes in. With shorter springs and the adjustable coil over assembly your 120Y will be ready for cornering.
You can get koni shocks/ struts all around. For a light small Datsun I recommend fluid suspension instead of gas struts/shocks.
Once you have your suspension lowered and improved, a set of sway bars will give you that cherry tip you are looking for. I suggest lowering your car first, before getting any wheels/tires. Only then you will know what fits.

For your coil overs you could get something like Ground Control , or the equivalent in Australia.

Good luck! Show some pictures.Coil Over Suspension

Posted on: 2007/2/24 3:06
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Re: 17" inch Wil they fit??l
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Please dude, do not fit 17's.
A small Datsun with seventeens looks like a charriot,the wheel is way to big in diameter to fit the profile and dimensions of the car.
Imagine a Porsche 911 which has 18 in wheels, or even 19 from factory,with 24 in wheels....it would look like a tractor!
Your performance will be terrible, because there could not be anything but thin rubber,and you will have to fit super hard springs and gas shocks/struts to avoid your tires from rubbing the body.
If I were not to like you, and wanted your car to look awfull, I will tell you:
"Mate, yes, get those 17 in your car, it will look great!"
My 2 cents.

Posted on: 2007/2/23 15:35
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Re: Love Australian Datsun parts!
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Datto!
Too bad to learn about the parts are gone. Were I knew about them I would had gotten them.
Yes, I remember trying to arrange through Fedex, but I do not remember your efforts with Australian Post. I remember we were trying, but I can not remember the details, I know I gave up when Fedex and all the US companies were quoting me incredible charges. 400.00 AU $ would had been about 300.00US, much better than 500 US. Through Australian Sea Mail I am sure it would had been lower.
I had no knowledge of Australian Post back then, much less Sea mail. Too bad the parts are gone, I would had gotten them.
Well, thanks for your efforts. I apreciate what you did.I gave up because Fedex US was trying to rip me off.
That was the closest I got to finally getting those parts.....
Then when I had that horror story with my B210...I dissappeared from radar for a while...
All that trouble is past tense...looking forward to a great future!!!!

Posted on: 2007/2/22 7:28
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Re: DCNF on A series manifold
No life (a.k.a. DattoMaster)
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Yes, give it a try, it will not hurt, get a header for your motor so the flow will be a better one. More exhaust flow means more flow in the chamber at overlapping.

The Weber rep responded ( that was fast...cool) he asked me a few questions...he was surprised about the DCNF, but he knows it is a better performance unit. There is no adaptors made ( this is Weber USA) but he suggested modifying a 32/36 adaptor. I responded anking about the 38 DGAS adaptor, which has larger openings.
Perhaps the best option would be to get a DGAS 38 adaptor, no holes drilled on it, and you would have to drill the holes on your car, as they appear to be positioned/required.

I will post the latest responses by the Weber Rep, his name is Bud.

Editing ..........1:10pm

here is an excerpt:
____________________________

You will find modifieing our standard adapter will be the easiest way
to
go. infact on that motor its a one piece adapter and you can fill and
redrill or offset and redrill with no issue at all

and on a 1400 I would go with something like 28mm ventrui and it will
be
a flyer.

for raod racing application you will want to look at float orientation
and lower float level a little and put a spring or stop in the bottom
of
the float well to limit float drop. other wise have fune

we are local to you and in redondo beach you can check with european
motorworks near 190-th and Hawthorn for parts they do a good job or
pick
up parts from us daily

hope we can be of help

Bud Pauge
REdline WEber

________________________________

Posted on: 2007/2/21 19:15
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