3M makes a great rust remove disk that you use with a drill, it looks like a round foam pad. Very nice as it will take off rust and paint but doesn't grind the metal. Wear a
mask and some gloves if your going to spray paint stripper, the stuff hurts on your skin and the vapor burns your eyes. I've used the aerosol cans to strip my rims and valve
cover.
Later,
Daniel

What are the dimensions of a 1200 insert?

Seems like Nissan kept the design of their strut inserts fairly similar, at least on the 510 and lter RWD's. The diameter of the body and shaft are all the same so. All of the RWD inserts
up to the (1st. gen.) Z31 300ZX will fit a 510 strut housing, the lengths and valving are the only differences. Inserts from other makes may work also... rear MR-2 inserts, front AE92
Corolla inserts, and Golf (A2 I think) front inserts have all been used in a 510.

You can cut and reweld the strut tube (Don Oldenburg of Design Products in Orange County can do this) to make up for this difference in length or use a spacer underneath the insert. Unless
you have really stiff springs I would try a B210 or 510 insert if you don't just go for the 1200 one's.

Classic Garage sells Koni's and KYB's for cheap.
They have Koni inserts for the 1200 for $30 ea.

for Koni's:
http://www.classicgarage.com/classicg ... cks-nissan--datsun-.htm_l

for KYB's:
http://www.classicgarage.com/nissan.html


The place below is in San Diego and they sell lots of brands at wholesale prices. Fill out the form on their webpage and they'll e-mail you a quote.
http://www.shox.com/


Dave Turner sells Tokikos for the same prices as shox.com but he a thing or two about Datsuns.
http://www.daveturner.com/

Save this e-mail this time so I don't have to list all these webpages again

Later,
Daniel

You can get Koni inserts for the 1200 here, $29.99 each:
http://www.classicgarage.com/classicgarage/86-1714.html
http://www.classicgarage.com/classicg ... cks-nissan--datsun-.htm_l

If a B-210 or 510 insert is the same length and dia you should be able to use that. like for 510 inserts you can you 200SX, 240Z, 280ZX, or 300ZX inserts. If the inserts
are shorter than your strut housing you can space the insert up with some pipe at the bottom of your housing or have the housing shortened.

Hey,
your 1200 looks nice. It's black right? Couldn't quite tell from the pics. Do you have bumpers for the car?

Sounds like you have a list of buyers. If those don't work out I'm in San Diego and would like a 1200. I don't have a garage full of parts or nothing, just a new tach for a coupe,
but I think the 1200 would be nice next to my 510.

Let me now what happens with the other buyers.
Daniel

My responses follow Andrew's comments.


L20 crank journals can be ground down - most people wouldn't bother because you just start with a L20 block anyway - heaps cheaper. it used to be a VERY common trick in Class N rallying in
South East Australia (capacity restrictions and all that).

I figured that was how those guys were making their 2 liter L-18 motors. Seems like the rod to stroke ratio would suck and these motors would wear the cylinder walls more.


Strangely with a 5mm overbore your stroke to bore ratio comes out pretty good....

It was "pretty good" to begin with. The L-16 or L-18 motor is already "over-square" (likes high rpm's) so it's stroke to bore characteristics don't really change, you just have a bigger motor
that may like to rev even more.


Even using the 88mm pistons brings you out near to 2250cc using a stock 20b crank,

W/ 88mm pistons and a 86mm crank I get 2092cc, look here for some info on a long rod L-21b: http://home.att.net/~jason510/longrod21.htm


let alone one with increased stroke (hey - if you're regrinding the base circle of the crank anyway!!).

Why not just use a Z22 crank? Unless you want the fully counterweighted L20-b crank.


L18's were a stroke job only of L16's so using an L18 crank in an L16 gave L18 not L17.... At least that's the way it was with Australian models.

Ozzie models my arse You guys must be using L-18 (larger bore) pistons or something.

Here's a easy math trick for 4-cylinders:
Square the dia. of the bore (in cm.) X pi X the stroke (in cm.) and you get the volume in cc.

Using the dia. as opposed to the radius of the bore gives you the 4 (after the dia. is squared) for the 4 cylinders. You can then multiple by 1.5 if you're dealing with a 6 cylinder. No more
dividing that bore in half.

L-16
8.3cm (bore) squared X pi X 7.37cm (stroke)= 1594cc

L-17 (L-16 bore w/ L-18 crank)
8.3cm (bore) squared X pi X 7.8cm (stroke)= 1687cc which rounds up to 1700cc or and L-17.

Don't make me argue that again, too much math talk:)


As far as U20's being the basis for L24 engines, that's to do with the whole development from Roadster to the Z which replaced it.

The Nissan L-series engine was a copy of Mercedes' early 60's OHC design. Mercedes timing chains work on an L-series motor.


Note that the L series never ran anything like those carbs until the Z came out, but twin Su's and Solex's were used on the 2000 roadster.

Wait, Both the z-car and 510 got SU carbs like on the roadster. The 610 had EFI on an L-16 or L-18. And Nismo sold the same Solex set-ups for the z and 510.


I know there were L20 and L23 motors around at a similar time

Actually the Z had been in production 5 years before the L20-b came out (1975). And Nissan never made a L23, L24 and Z22 yes, but not L-23. That motor is a "hybrid"; Z20 block, 6" rod, 89-
90mm bore, Z22 (92.0mm) crank.


- check the carburetion and cam profiles compared to the Z....no similarity at all.

Again, yes on the SU's and the 4-cyl. even got efi like the later Z's. And I believe the specs on the 4 cyl. SSS (or L-20b) cam are much like the Z's. What was the point you were trying to
make about the Z motors?


DOHC models not seen elsewhere - such as the 432R DOHC S20 engine, with triple 42DCOE webers (from the standard 2 litre triple solexes).

Ther were also TWO versions of this head for 4-cylinders. One made by Nissan and One by OS Giken, there's a picture on the Datsun Soul Website and in the U.S. "Datsun... Modify" books.


Did america get the 3 seat roadster?

Yeah, I think up until 1966 when they switched to the R16 motor.

Cheers,
Daniel

They shot this around the 510 list a while back. Isn't the 910 the same as the first Maxima, it was only called a 910 in the States for a year? Or did the 1st
Maxima a VG30?
How about a 810? That'd be cool. Kinda like a 4 door z-car.

How much should a car/truck weight to tow a 510 (2200#) on a trailer? I've heard double the weight you are towing (2200# plus trailer) but that would be a BIG
car.

Daniel

A couple monthes ago there was one of these V8's for sale on eaby. I'm pretty sure it was in Portland.
Daniel

Yea, that was me. A kid came to my shop with it in the back of his p/u, had a custom crossmember and apparently was installed in a '70 510. I did a little research and found that
the Y44 was also used as a platform for early Electromotive management systems. Came from Japan, sold it to a guy in Hawaii, I'm in Portland, just show ya it's a small world.

I think you mean dual SU's, right? The carbs in good running condition, alone, might be worth the $200, buy the car.

The 510 L-16 is like a L-20b with a 3/4" shorter block (basically a 4-cyl. L-24). The z-car or p/u 5-speeds bolt right up, or a roadster or Naps-Z one w/ a L-series bellhousing. An L-20b would
probably be a better street engine.

There is even a FACTORY EFI AND TURBO manifold. The Z-car R-180 diff will go right in too, though not really needed. Subaru used the R-160 diff throughout the 80's and LSD's were on most of
the AWD's, good cheap swap. Engine swaps range from "frankenstein" LZ-22, Z-18et's, rotaries, VG-30 or 33's, sr20de(t)'s, to Buick 215 and Ford 302's.

The 69 510's came with different grilles and dashes (the rectangular, sweeping speedo and metal knobs for headlights and wiper controls), most people switch to the later (70 and on) dash with
round gauges that you can get a factory tach for. The sidemarker lights are different on the 69 (the 68 didn't have the rear red one's and the 70-on cars got rect. shaped ones) and I believe
those are NLA, NOS ones are out there but real expensive. The 68-69 model also had METAL side vents (very desirable) with no exposed screws, can't steal'em. The taillights (unique to 69) and
front turnsignals are also slighty smaller than the later years (different lenses) and the front valence and taillight panel are different to match. I think the 69 used the roadster fusebox.

The 69 crossmember has a higher pickup point for the control arms than the 70-on (the 68 is higher still?), good for a lowered car. The 69 control arms (hard to get bushing for 69 arms) are
different from the later ones and you'd what to switch to them so you can use the Energy Suspension bushings; B210, z-car and modified 200sx arms work.

What makes the 68's and 69's lower is their shorter struts, 10.5" to the spring perch for 68's and 11" for 69's, the 70-on cars got 11.5" struts. Doesn't really matter as you can take the
struts off, put them on your 1200 and use 200sx (11" like the 69's and you can even use z-car brakes) or 280zx struts with vented rotor (this seems to be the hip set-up, you get shorter struts
and big brakes). People are also making rear disc brake brackets for 200sx or 280zx rear discs. The 69 steering arms are also different, you'll need to find the older tie-rods (Moog makes
them) or reem them out to fit the newer tie-rods.

The little parts are what's expensive and hard to find; taillight gaskets, trim peices, fuse box covers, weatherstripping, 69 dashpad are NLA. But the good news is there's probably more
available from Nissan for the 510 than a 1200.

Look for rust in the *strut towers*, *bottom of front fender right between door and wheelwell*, FLOORBOARDS*, doors toward the bottom, inside wheelwells, trunk, by antenea on a-pillar, under
the cowl, and under the rear window.

If you get the car you should get on the Bluebirds (510) list, lots of good info: http://www.dimequarterly.tierranet.com/maillist.html


The premeire 510 site and newsletter:
http://www.dimequarterly.tierranet.com/

http://www.dimequarterly.tierranet.com/tech/spreadbury.guide.html


More 510 tech:
http://home.att.net/~jason510/

http://kmhafer.homestead.com/datsun510.html

http://www.bryanf.com/

http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm

http://www.pl510.com/

These V8's came form mid-70's (not sure of the years) Nissan Presidential, their top-o-da line car. Bob Sharp Racing use one in Newman's IMSA 280ZX, might have been
destroked and turboed or something. I can't remember if they later went back to the L-28et or stopped the race program.
Eddie (Ratdat) would know. You awake yet Eddie?

Eddie, I get HALF!!
Daniel

Mario,

I'm still having trouble with this quad SU thing. I've never heard of it and it sounds like overkill. Seems like the intake pulses would give you a poor idle.
To tell what engine it is look on the passenger side of the engine, right underneath the last sparkplug. Should say "L-16" or "L-18" or whatever. If you can't make out the writing see the end
of this message for a more "visual" check.
Did you have a look at the car yet? Did he use a custom intake manifold? Does it have a balance tube?

I thought the Roadster used the R-15, R-16, and U-20. And the 311, 410, 411, and 520 got the J-13.

The L-20b (or larger) crank WILL NOT fit a L-16 or L-18 block. The journals are a different size. You CANNOT take a L16 out to 2300cc, 1900cc is probably the max for a "small block". Well
maybe you could if you ground down the journals of the crank and overbored the block to the max (the LZ-23's use a 89-90mm bore). But then your rod to stroke ratio would be crap.

A L-18 (or L-13 if you ever find one in the states) crank will fit a L-16 block giving you a L-17 (great MPG engine) unless you overbore the block.

A L-20b can use a NapsZ-20, 22, or 24 crank. LZ-22 "Frankenstein" motors, long rod LZ-23, or long rod L-20b w/ fully counterweighted cranks seem to be the "premiere" L-series powerplants (the
VG, SR, and KA motors are the current hot swaps). Check out this page to see all the possible combinations of L-series engines: http://home.att.net/~jason510/Motorspecs.htm

The L-16 and L-18 blocks have only one bolt above the water pump on the passenger side. These blocks are identical except the L-18 has a larger bore and ribs on the outside of the block.

The NapZ block will interchange w/ a L-series block. The only mod is a little bit of drilling to the oil jet. The L-20b, Naps-Z20 and Z22 have 3/4" taller blocks with TWO bolts above the
water pump. A Z-24 block (1.5" taller than a L-16) will have 3 bolts. Don't ever use a Z-24 block, they crack at the headbolt holes. You can even fit a L-series head to a KA or a KA 12V to a
L or NapsZ block.

Okay, I'm done,
Daniel