hmm that link dont work for me and i'm on FB..

sounds like the ole ported vacuum vs manifold vacuum problem.
WOT would be a low ported vacuum signal and also a low manifold signal, which would make less advance, which is what you want.

ported vacuum is inversely proportional to throttle position and manifold vacuum is more a function of "load"

did you remove those vacuum delay thingies? or make sure they are pointed the right way, and do you have a dizzy with 1 or 2 vacuum hookups?

Doesnt the battery usually remove it slowly over time?

:P

you could do this or put the parts in a car, which would be much better results.

eh ... disregard this... more conjecture and opinion.

if it's an issue, follow the law.

I've researched this every few years when it comes up.

i've been unable to find many cases of my wilwoods failed and i nearly died or such disasters. found one account of a piston seal failing that seems to have been because the owner would spray brake cleaner on the pistons and shove them back in the bores frequently.

people complain that the dynalites are too small for corvettes on the track, and complaints of flex that range from blaming the caliper, to the mounting plate to the firewall flexing.

when i say wilwood dynalite i mean wilwood dynalite II, there may have been issues in the older ones. ALSO are we talking the billet or forged? the forged ones are stronger, if you're insane there is a cast dynalite...


personally, i feel safer with the wilwoods than the OEM brakes this car had. there are other models, i beleve that there is a 'dynapro' model thats has dust seals, id use those if i went around much dirt.

on 280xz turbo struts the adaptor plate for the wilwoods is a flat piece of metal you could make with hand tools ( it would be slow, but not impossible )

the wilwood dynalite 4 pot calipers are great, light and as reliable as those oem brakes. i've had a set on my car for years not a bit of trouble ever.

the calipers loaded are lighter than 2lbs a side. it feels like its made of plastic, but is hard as stone. amazing engineering, and about 1/5th what brembos cost, for nothing better.

the rumor about how they arent good for street use because they dont have seals or whatever is like when HID lights were illegal in the US because thy dont have filaments and the law required filaments.

only one of the noltec bushings failed, it was an odd color when it was put in, all the other ones are fine after 4 years, that happens sometimes with badly mixed resin.

anyway, i figured out what the deal with those bushings is, it's a ford mustang panhard rod bushing ( pretty much any year 1980 - 2000 ), you take the metal sleeve off the smaller of the 2 that come in the box, then cut 1cm off the center metal tube, and there ya go... getting them in without a hydraulic press is a bit annoying.

they are not 'obsolete' or unavailable just described strangely in the aftermarket parts listings.

i seem to remember sometihng about cut-down ford mustang panhard rod bushings...

or is it that the oem part picture looks odd to me since i had noltecs for so long...

I'm trying to find /any/!! of the bushings for my 4 link rearend, i have noltec urethane in there now and one has disintegrated into little blue chunks, i am having no luck finding even a junk aftermarket rubber bushing to use temporarily...

what do they call them? couldnt find them at all even at my old sources, am i calling them the wrong thing?

i guess noltec doesnt exist anymore, so what do i do? i'm about to just make a set, it's not that hard...