User Login    
 + Register
  • Main navigation
Login
Username:

Password:


Lost Password?

Register now!
Fast Search
Slow Search
Google Ad


   All Posts (Pendles)


(1) 2 3 4 ... 27 »


Re: For Sale: Datsun P312 and many spares QLD
Moderator
Joined:
2004/6/17 1:51
From Toowoomba, Qld
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 319
Offline
Thanks for the help DD, its been a while. Good to see you guys.

Posted on: 2017/3/4 23:26
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


No longer for sale.
Moderator
Joined:
2004/6/17 1:51
From Toowoomba, Qld
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 319
Offline
No longer for sale - thanks

Posted on: 2017/3/4 23:24

Edited by Pendles on 2017/3/6 21:18:50
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


No longer for sale.
Moderator
Joined:
2004/6/17 1:51
From Toowoomba, Qld
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 319
Offline
No longer for sale - Thanks.

Posted on: 2017/3/4 23:20

Edited by Pendles on 2017/3/6 21:17:56
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: EOI datsun 1978 auto 1200 ute.
Moderator
Joined:
2004/6/17 1:51
From Toowoomba, Qld
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 319
Offline
any more info?

drivable? far from roadworthy? price?

Cheers
Dave

Posted on: 2010/10/18 12:56
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: WTB: Complete car for work.
Moderator
Joined:
2004/6/17 1:51
From Toowoomba, Qld
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 319
Offline
Thats the thing, I'm not after a show car, project car, or racecar, just a daily.

The sunny on ebay would have been spot on but I'm at work for another week and a half, and I'm not buying something sight unseen.

Still on the hunt people.

Posted on: 2010/10/16 2:26
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: WTB: Complete car for work.
Moderator
Joined:
2004/6/17 1:51
From Toowoomba, Qld
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 319
Offline
When I say close-ish to roadworthy, I'm not worried if the engines seized or the gearbox is missing or things like that, I'm a mechanic and I have a container full of parts and panels from over the years for 1200's and 120Y's.

What I'm trying to find is an intact car (interior and exterior) that's not falling to bits with rust, that I can put back on the road. If it needs an engine, or a gearbag, or brakes and whatnot, I can do that pretty quick and cheap.

Sorry if the original post was misleading, dont care if it's registered, just as long as most of the bits are there.

Always happy to adjust the price range for a good car.

Cheers
Dave

Posted on: 2010/10/11 0:28
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: WTB: Complete car for work.
Moderator
Joined:
2004/6/17 1:51
From Toowoomba, Qld
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 319
Offline
Bump, I've got a couple of weeks to track something down before I lose the car I have now.

Show me what you have people.

Cheers
Dave

Posted on: 2010/10/10 8:41
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


WTB: Complete car for work.
Moderator
Joined:
2004/6/17 1:51
From Toowoomba, Qld
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 319
Offline
As the title says, looking for a complete car, close-ish to roadworthy, not too worried about cosmetics, not worried if it needs a bit of mechanical stuff.

Sedan or wagon. No utes please.

Prefer anything with a manual A series, (1200, 120Y, Sunny, etc)

South QLD, Northern NSW.

Need it to drive 340km a month to work and back for a few years, so nothing fancy.

Not looking to spend more than 1K

Call Dave 0427 450 212
or PM.
Best to call during the day, I dont get reception of a night time. (Rig Camp)

Posted on: 2010/10/9 7:29
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: wtb fuel filler pipe or where to get one?
Moderator
Joined:
2004/6/17 1:51
From Toowoomba, Qld
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 319
Offline
I got an elbow from an exhaust shop, 4 hose clamps, and sone fuel rated hose from an ag joint. worked a treat

Cheers
Dave

Posted on: 2010/8/23 0:19
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer


Re: coil is leaking electricity
Moderator
Joined:
2004/6/17 1:51
From Toowoomba, Qld
Group:
Registered Users
Posts: 319
Offline
You may find the spark is jumping FROM the coil lead TO the negative prong.
Check the resistance of the coil lead, (1000 Ohms/inch I think), make sure thers no cracks or perishing around the rubber boot for the coil lead, and that the button in the centre of the dizzy cap is touching the top of the rotor.
Also clean the outside of the coil and all the contacts really well,

Cheers
Dave

Posted on: 2010/4/20 12:27
Transfer the post to other applications Transfer



 Top
(1) 2 3 4 ... 27 »